UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

8m.

Rockfax Description
Good climbing up the shallow cracks in the centre of the slab. © Rockfax

FA. Bill McKee 1978.

Ticklists

Stanage Slab

Feedback

User Date Notes
HazelMacLean 27 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Just so happened to have three of the same size nut, otherwise would have been a bit bold.
Show beta
βeta: Just so happened to have three of the same size nut, otherwise would have been a bit bold.
Alan James - Rockfax 17 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Nice climbing but slightly escapable on the left.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice climbing but slightly escapable on the left.
leon 12 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: this route is really not very well protected. you can get a nut in low down and them a microcam placement before the crux (which seemed hard for 4). the next decent placement is just before the top out. it would be possible to get 1 or 2 more okish nut placements but then you'd be loosing the best hand holds on the route. i think this route will push most vs leaders.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: this route is really not very well protected. you can get a nut in low down and them a microcam placement before the crux (which seemed hard for 4). the next decent placement is just before the top out. it would be possible to get 1 or 2 more okish nut placements but then you'd be loosing the best hand holds on the route. i think this route will push most vs leaders.
Tom M Williams 24 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I found it may aswell just be soloed, pretty poor gear
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I found it may aswell just be soloed, pretty poor gear
featuresforfeet 17 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I didn't find the gear amazing - a few small cams in the flared crack, none of which inspired much confidence.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I didn't find the gear amazing - a few small cams in the flared crack, none of which inspired much confidence.

Logged Ascents

717 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage North

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 26 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 71
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 68
Votes cast 57
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Misty Wall

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)

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