There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Good climbing up the shallow cracks in the centre of the slab. © Rockfax
FA. Bill McKee 1978.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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HazelMacLean | 27 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: Just so happened to have three of the same size nut, otherwise would have been a bit bold. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Just so happened to have three of the same size nut, otherwise would have been a bit bold. |
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Alan James - Rockfax | 17 May, 2020 |
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βeta: Nice climbing but slightly escapable on the left. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Nice climbing but slightly escapable on the left. |
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leon | 12 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: this route is really not very well protected. you can get a nut in low down and them a microcam placement before the crux (which seemed hard for 4). the next decent placement is just before the top out. it would be possible to get 1 or 2 more okish nut placements but then you'd be loosing the best hand holds on the route. i think this route will push most vs leaders. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: this route is really not very well protected. you can get a nut in low down and them a microcam placement before the crux (which seemed hard for 4). the next decent placement is just before the top out. it would be possible to get 1 or 2 more okish nut placements but then you'd be loosing the best hand holds on the route. i think this route will push most vs leaders. |
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Tom M Williams | 24 Nov, 2005 |
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βeta: I found it may aswell just be soloed, pretty poor gear | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I found it may aswell just be soloed, pretty poor gear |
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featuresforfeet | 17 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: I didn't find the gear amazing - a few small cams in the flared crack, none of which inspired much confidence. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I didn't find the gear amazing - a few small cams in the flared crack, none of which inspired much confidence. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Bamford Edge)