UKC

8m.

Rockfax Description
Start at a notch in the overhang. Pull through the roof - hard - then climb the bold face above. © Rockfax

FA. Terry Bolger 1979.

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User Date Notes
mr_johnso 21 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Fairly shit/ no gear after rocking onto slab & till you get onto the top ledge, by which point you may as well top out. Definately groundfall potential if you arnt comfortable on these moves.
βeta?
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βeta: Fairly shit/ no gear after rocking onto slab & till you get onto the top ledge, by which point you may as well top out. Definately groundfall potential if you arnt comfortable on these moves.
steveb2006 26 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Crucial position in the thin crack for a finger tip or two to enable getting stood up in first break. Micro wire useful too
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βeta: Crucial position in the thin crack for a finger tip or two to enable getting stood up in first break. Micro wire useful too
nate 7 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Saw some bloke take a ground fall on it Sat, he was very lucky to walk away. Under grading has its faults, but this just a thin HVS 5a.
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βeta: Saw some bloke take a ground fall on it Sat, he was very lucky to walk away. Under grading has its faults, but this just a thin HVS 5a.
Tyler 14 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Harder than 5a I'd say, can't imagine a VS climber being able to do this route.
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βeta: Harder than 5a I'd say, can't imagine a VS climber being able to do this route.
teddy 3 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Fair enough mate.
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βeta: Fair enough mate.
Stuart S 2 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Fine. Crescent Arete is HVS 5b. I still found it considerably easier than this route. I could also list all the E1s I've led this year which I found easier than this route, but what's the point? You're not going to agree with me or Simon, and we're probably not going to agree wiht you, so we'll all just have to go with whatever the consensus is with the voting system. Fact remains that personally, I found it hard for the current rockfax grade.
βeta?
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βeta: Fine. Crescent Arete is HVS 5b. I still found it considerably easier than this route. I could also list all the E1s I've led this year which I found easier than this route, but what's the point? You're not going to agree with me or Simon, and we're probably not going to agree wiht you, so we'll all just have to go with whatever the consensus is with the voting system. Fact remains that personally, I found it hard for the current rockfax grade.
teddy 1 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Ever heard of widening the debate? I can refer to Paradise Wall if I want to by way of illustration. It is after all merely within one grade of our contested route. I have done a lot of VS's in my time as I am sure you have too. Thinking of tough VS's, have you ever done Samarkand at Anglesarke or Botterills Slab on Scafell - makes Jim Crow look like a walk in the park.
βeta?
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βeta: Ever heard of widening the debate? I can refer to Paradise Wall if I want to by way of illustration. It is after all merely within one grade of our contested route. I have done a lot of VS's in my time as I am sure you have too. Thinking of tough VS's, have you ever done Samarkand at Anglesarke or Botterills Slab on Scafell - makes Jim Crow look like a walk in the park.
Simon Caldwell 1 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: What's Paradise Wall got to do with it? Just because that's overgraded doesn't mean that this is. I've done a lot of VSs, and I've done this, and this is no VS.
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βeta: What's Paradise Wall got to do with it? Just because that's overgraded doesn't mean that this is. I've done a lot of VSs, and I've done this, and this is no VS.
teddy 30 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: No, just remember VS's are generally pretty tough compareed to Severes. Stuff like Paradise Wall just isn't VS and is better classified HS. HVS and E1's are definite steps up and should be respected as such. BTW, Whillans died in 1985 Stuart...check your facts!!
βeta?
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βeta: No, just remember VS's are generally pretty tough compareed to Severes. Stuff like Paradise Wall just isn't VS and is better classified HS. HVS and E1's are definite steps up and should be respected as such. BTW, Whillans died in 1985 Stuart...check your facts!!
Simon Caldwell 30 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: You mean when VS was the highest grade and included everything from VS to E-something?
βeta?
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βeta: You mean when VS was the highest grade and included everything from VS to E-something?
teddy 29 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I woz merely using the name Whillans to conjure up a vision of the days when VS's were as hard as nails, unlike these nancy boy slabby E1s that some people try to use to devalue these 'real mens routes'! BTW Crescent Arete is HVS 5b and not E1 (more grade inflation).
βeta?
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βeta: I woz merely using the name Whillans to conjure up a vision of the days when VS's were as hard as nails, unlike these nancy boy slabby E1s that some people try to use to devalue these 'real mens routes'! BTW Crescent Arete is HVS 5b and not E1 (more grade inflation).
Stuart S 29 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Well I found it considerably harder than Crescent Arete. And what has Whillans etc got to do with a route that was first climbed in 1978?
βeta?
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βeta: Well I found it considerably harder than Crescent Arete. And what has Whillans etc got to do with a route that was first climbed in 1978?
Simon Caldwell 29 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: If you think it's VS 4c then you're wrong. 'Grade inflation' is often just another way of saying 'grade correction'.
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βeta: If you think it's VS 4c then you're wrong. 'Grade inflation' is often just another way of saying 'grade correction'.
teddy 29 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: b*llocks - this used to be graded VS 4c!!! and still is in my opinion. Its comments like these that are responsible for 'grade inflation'. Just remember VS is a harsh grade...think Whillans, hemp rope, rain and hobnail boots....!!
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βeta: b*llocks - this used to be graded VS 4c!!! and still is in my opinion. Its comments like these that are responsible for 'grade inflation'. Just remember VS is a harsh grade...think Whillans, hemp rope, rain and hobnail boots....!!
Stuart S 28 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Felt harder than most of the E1s I've done this year, and bold too, once you're above the roof. Quite pokey.
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βeta: Felt harder than most of the E1s I've done this year, and bold too, once you're above the roof. Quite pokey.

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 46
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 38
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Desperation

Grade: E1 6a ***
(Stanage Popular)

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