UKC

16m.

Rockfax Description
An amazing ascent for its day - it still sees much floundering. From Twisting Crack, make awkward moves to a poor rest on the block under the roof. Bridge right along the lip and make a hard move up and right to reach holds on the wall. Finish easily. © Rockfax

FA. Morley Wood 1926.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage *** HVS's , The Peak: Past and Present , Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit , Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Ultimate HVS ticklist , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , The Gritlist , UK Sandbags , Stanage HVS Challenge , Jem's Time in the Peaks , Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3* , Peak District Grit Graded List , Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Pete's Peak Treats , To do , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1 , Hardest HVSs in the Peak , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

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User Date Notes
193 3 Jul Show βeta
βeta: not been Extreme for almost 100 year ,
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: not been Extreme for almost 100 year ,
Alan James - UKC and UKH 9 May Show βeta
βeta: There seems to be some confusion about where to go once at the lip on this route. This is the original line so you take the best and easiest option. For most climbers that will be bridging upwards to reach the break above and then moving right. There are other ways of moving more directly right using undercuts and/or poor layaways but these are mostly harder (unless you are not very tall). This does mean that one move is shared with Mouthpiece.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There seems to be some confusion about where to go once at the lip on this route. This is the original line so you take the best and easiest option. For most climbers that will be bridging upwards to reach the break above and then moving right. There are other ways of moving more directly right using undercuts and/or poor layaways but these are mostly harder (unless you are not very tall). This does mean that one move is shared with Mouthpiece.
Pythonist 15 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I doubt it's a new route, but instead of staying low after the bridge (I thought it was a great rest, and didn't have to jam anything!), keep bridging directly upwards from between the blocks. It becomes a relatively easy E1 5c/5b, but felt far more enticing than trying to get left under the roof! Not much harder than Right Un., but much easier than Left Un.
Show beta
βeta: I doubt it's a new route, but instead of staying low after the bridge (I thought it was a great rest, and didn't have to jam anything!), keep bridging directly upwards from between the blocks. It becomes a relatively easy E1 5c/5b, but felt far more enticing than trying to get left under the roof! Not much harder than Right Un., but much easier than Left Un.
Nick Smith - Climbers 26 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: You can get a great hands-free rest on the block (get one leg at the back of the crack), which is just as well because it took me over an hour to work out how to do the crux! Hint: undercut or jam the break on the far right, and delicately rock over.
Show beta
βeta: You can get a great hands-free rest on the block (get one leg at the back of the crack), which is just as well because it took me over an hour to work out how to do the crux! Hint: undercut or jam the break on the far right, and delicately rock over.

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High E2
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Mid HVS
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Votes cast 237
High 6a
Mid 6a
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High 5c
Mid 5c
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High 5b
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Votes cast 232
Votes cast 205
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Meditation

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Chee Dale Lower)

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