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16m.

Rockfax Description
An amazing ascent for its day - it still sees much floundering. From Twisting Crack, make awkward moves to a poor rest on the block under the roof. Bridge right along the lip and make a hard move up and right to reach holds on the wall. Finish easily. © Rockfax

FA. Morley Wood 1926.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage *** HVS's, The Peak: Past and Present, Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit, Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Ultimate HVS ticklist, 3 Star Stanage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), The Gritlist, UK Sandbags, Stanage HVS Challenge, Jem's Time in the Peaks, Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3*, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alan100 30 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I'm really gald i didn't look at this page before i tried the route. Wouldn't have been nearly as satisfying if i'd read all this beta....
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βeta: I'm really gald i didn't look at this page before i tried the route. Wouldn't have been nearly as satisfying if i'd read all this beta....
Si dH 3 Dec, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: UK grades are supposed to be for the onsight and this is E1 5c. If you know how to do the move in advacne and know youre going ot get a rest (and how) then maybe its HVS 5b. but not otherwise.
βeta?
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βeta: UK grades are supposed to be for the onsight and this is E1 5c. If you know how to do the move in advacne and know youre going ot get a rest (and how) then maybe its HVS 5b. but not otherwise.
Pythonist 16 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Clarification of line: This climb starts up Twisting Crack, traverses to the rest, and then continues right before moving up. I'd still give it E1. Moving directly up from the rest is Mouthpiece at HVS and it can finish either right/left once on the upper slab. Mouthpiece as described in Rockfax (crossing the roof direct to the rest) is E2 5c. (PS by "left under..." I did of course mean "right under..." in the previous post)
βeta?
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βeta: Clarification of line: This climb starts up Twisting Crack, traverses to the rest, and then continues right before moving up. I'd still give it E1. Moving directly up from the rest is Mouthpiece at HVS and it can finish either right/left once on the upper slab. Mouthpiece as described in Rockfax (crossing the roof direct to the rest) is E2 5c. (PS by "left under..." I did of course mean "right under..." in the previous post)
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 18 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Soloed this and didn't think it was too bad, not harder than Flying Buttress Direct which is also HVS 5b.
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βeta: Soloed this and didn't think it was too bad, not harder than Flying Buttress Direct which is also HVS 5b.
Pythonist 15 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I doubt it's a new route, but instead of staying low after the bridge (I thought it was a great rest, and didn't have to jam anything!), keep bridging directly upwards from between the blocks. It becomes a relatively easy E1 5c/5b, but felt far more enticing than trying to get left under the roof! Not much harder than Right Un., but much easier than Left Un.
 
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βeta: I doubt it's a new route, but instead of staying low after the bridge (I thought it was a great rest, and didn't have to jam anything!), keep bridging directly upwards from between the blocks. It becomes a relatively easy E1 5c/5b, but felt far more enticing than trying to get left under the roof! Not much harder than Right Un., but much easier than Left Un.
MNA123 23 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I.m gonna go back for this bad boy,my arms got so pumped hanging around on the traverse out trying to find the leg jam i took a fall on good gear and floated gently down head bowed in shame,ah well living in chesterfield i've go0t plenty of time left to get back out and give it some.
βeta?
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βeta: I.m gonna go back for this bad boy,my arms got so pumped hanging around on the traverse out trying to find the leg jam i took a fall on good gear and floated gently down head bowed in shame,ah well living in chesterfield i've go0t plenty of time left to get back out and give it some.
Duncan I 4 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Technically it's 5b It just takes a bit of working out but that's no reason to give it 5c. Compare it with other 5c on Stanage! There's also lots of gear so why E1? It's no more strenuous than Right Unconquerable and has a much better rest.
βeta?
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βeta: Technically it's 5b It just takes a bit of working out but that's no reason to give it 5c. Compare it with other 5c on Stanage! There's also lots of gear so why E1? It's no more strenuous than Right Unconquerable and has a much better rest.
Paz 30 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: It's a great rest if you have the flexibility of a childs rubber toy. I don't and my hips still hurt. It only took me twenty minutes to work it out the same way, but please can we delete the previous comment or are you supposed to get miles more beta than you need on these comments? Hanging on to work it out is the hard bit FFS. It's sporting HVS and anyone who says different hasn't been on Orangutan. Oh hang on that's E2 now, I might buy this new guide book so I can say I'm a seasoned extreme leader.
βeta?
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βeta: It's a great rest if you have the flexibility of a childs rubber toy. I don't and my hips still hurt. It only took me twenty minutes to work it out the same way, but please can we delete the previous comment or are you supposed to get miles more beta than you need on these comments? Hanging on to work it out is the hard bit FFS. It's sporting HVS and anyone who says different hasn't been on Orangutan. Oh hang on that's E2 now, I might buy this new guide book so I can say I'm a seasoned extreme leader.
Nick Smith - Climbers 26 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: You can get a great hands-free rest on the block (get one leg at the back of the crack), which is just as well because it took me over an hour to work out how to do the crux! Hint: undercut or jam the break on the far right, and delicately rock over.
 
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βeta: You can get a great hands-free rest on the block (get one leg at the back of the crack), which is just as well because it took me over an hour to work out how to do the crux! Hint: undercut or jam the break on the far right, and delicately rock over.

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Route of Interest

The Seven Deadly Sins

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Harpur Hill Quarry)