Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
A variation start to NCC. Begin at a shallow scoop and climb to the first break, then move left to a shallow groove and up this to a good flat ledge. Finish up the slippery corner. © Rockfax
FA. Harry Kelly late 1910s.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Beginner Peak Severe , Stanage Severes (UKC)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| crag | 29 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Whil dedcription in rockfax is right, the line on the picture is wrong and takes you an E2'ish route. Go left at horozontal crack. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Whil dedcription in rockfax is right, the line on the picture is wrong and takes you an E2'ish route. Go left at horozontal crack. |
||||
| Wilbur | 20 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nice varied route with a good airy traverse. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Nice varied route with a good airy traverse. |
||||
| Jonathan T | 13 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: A good solo, positive holds and no insecure moves. Nice route. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: A good solo, positive holds and no insecure moves. Nice route. |
||||
| Simon Caldwell | 15 Aug, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: I thought the moves left were fine - it was the layback at the top that took me by surprise! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I thought the moves left were fine - it was the layback at the top that took me by surprise! |
||||
| Dale Berry | 28 Sep, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: A decent route. The moves left to the shallow groove that leads to the huge ledge are good value at severe. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: A decent route. The moves left to the shallow groove that leads to the huge ledge are good value at severe. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Black Hawk Hell Crack
Grade: S 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)