Rockfax Description
Climb the front arete of the buttress using the curving crack to gain a small ledge (5b for shorties). Follow flakes left out onto the face and finish with some urgency. © Rockfax
FA. Paul Nunn 1963.
Ticklists
15 Climbs to do before you die , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , 'Soft' Peak HVSs. , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , Stanage HVS Challenge , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| PaulJepson | 31 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: This is big beta but may save someone hurting themselves. You can place and check gear in the initial crack by toe-hooking the right arete. Give it a go! Otherwise too barndoor-y. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: This is big beta but may save someone hurting themselves. You can place and check gear in the initial crack by toe-hooking the right arete. Give it a go! Otherwise too barndoor-y. |
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| andybirtwistle | 1 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: A tad worrying as Andy had just taken a fall on Surgeons Saunter. .My first HVS since reaching 70 | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A tad worrying as Andy had just taken a fall on Surgeons Saunter. .My first HVS since reaching 70 |
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| leon | 17 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: the gear on this is great, which is why i think it's given vs 5a. the route has got some great moves on very positive holds. | βeta? | |
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βeta: the gear on this is great, which is why i think it's given vs 5a. the route has got some great moves on very positive holds. |
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| Tom Chamberlain | 10 Nov, 2003 |
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βeta: Three stars, no question. Why is it not HVS? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Three stars, no question. Why is it not HVS? |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 22 Aug, 2002 |
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βeta: A direct finish is possible (Rimmington Place - E2 5c) from the good break above the ledge. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A direct finish is possible (Rimmington Place - E2 5c) from the good break above the ledge. |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 22 Aug, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Definitely HVS (as it is in the printed guide). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Definitely HVS (as it is in the printed guide). |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
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Titanic Direct
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Stanage North)