Loading Notifications...
8m.

Rockfax Description
The thin cracks. Gear is a fiddle. © Rockfax

FA. Clive Rowland 1961.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alan James - UKC and UKH 17 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Needs several small cams and none of them is great.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Needs several small cams and none of them is great.
Mutl3y 11 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Gibbed off rightward after gettin too high above my last bit of marginal gear. Don't really like this sort of problem...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Gibbed off rightward after gettin too high above my last bit of marginal gear. Don't really like this sort of problem...
Souljah 3 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I found 3-4 good bits of gear in the crack leading up to the crux, past that there is nothing but its not really required! Good technical moves, keep to the right of the shallow crack but do not be tempted by the twin cracks! A good VS lead in my book
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I found 3-4 good bits of gear in the crack leading up to the crux, past that there is nothing but its not really required! Good technical moves, keep to the right of the shallow crack but do not be tempted by the twin cracks! A good VS lead in my book
Simon Caldwell 15 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I assume you're not supposed to use the left of duo cracks near the top :-( Quite a pleasant route, but a bit of an eliminate as that wretched crack is too close to resist. Can't see how the crux is protected by bomber gear unless a side run is placed (in that crack).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I assume you're not supposed to use the left of duo cracks near the top :-( Quite a pleasant route, but a bit of an eliminate as that wretched crack is too close to resist. Can't see how the crux is protected by bomber gear unless a side run is placed (in that crack).
54ms 19 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I just fell of the bastard. Pleasently technical my arse!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I just fell of the bastard. Pleasently technical my arse!
Stig 18 Nov, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I agree that some of the gear lower down is a bit dubious but bomber gear protects the crux. More importantly, it's not that thin for slabby 5a, so not 'hard' 5a.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree that some of the gear lower down is a bit dubious but bomber gear protects the crux. More importantly, it's not that thin for slabby 5a, so not 'hard' 5a.
Monk 13 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I soloed it and did think the opportunities for gear were limited. Good moves though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I soloed it and did think the opportunities for gear were limited. Good moves though.
Jon Greengrass 20 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Ace technical climbing, Soloed this second go after reversing from what i thought was the crux first time. I'm sure i could have laced it with wires and small friend.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Ace technical climbing, Soloed this second go after reversing from what i thought was the crux first time. I'm sure i could have laced it with wires and small friend.
Nick Smith - Climbers 8 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Pleasantly technical?? I found it scary with poor gear! Eases a bit in the top half of the route though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pleasantly technical?? I found it scary with poor gear! Eases a bit in the top half of the route though.

Logged Ascents

635 users have logged this
8 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 108
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 105
Votes cast 90
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Inaccessible Crack

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage North)