8m.
Rockfax Description
The thin cracks. Gear is a bit of a fiddle. © Rockfax
FA. Clive Rowland 1961.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alan James - Rockfax | 17 May, 2020 |
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βeta: Needs several small cams and none of them is great. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Needs several small cams and none of them is great. |
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| Mutl3y | 11 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: Gibbed off rightward after gettin too high above my last bit of marginal gear. Don't really like this sort of problem... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Gibbed off rightward after gettin too high above my last bit of marginal gear. Don't really like this sort of problem... |
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| Souljah | 3 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: I found 3-4 good bits of gear in the crack leading up to the crux, past that there is nothing but its not really required! Good technical moves, keep to the right of the shallow crack but do not be tempted by the twin cracks! A good VS lead in my book | βeta? | |
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βeta: I found 3-4 good bits of gear in the crack leading up to the crux, past that there is nothing but its not really required! Good technical moves, keep to the right of the shallow crack but do not be tempted by the twin cracks! A good VS lead in my book |
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| Simon Caldwell | 15 Aug, 2004 |
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βeta: I assume you're not supposed to use the left of duo cracks near the top :-( Quite a pleasant route, but a bit of an eliminate as that wretched crack is too close to resist. Can't see how the crux is protected by bomber gear unless a side run is placed (in that crack). | βeta? | |
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βeta: I assume you're not supposed to use the left of duo cracks near the top :-( Quite a pleasant route, but a bit of an eliminate as that wretched crack is too close to resist. Can't see how the crux is protected by bomber gear unless a side run is placed (in that crack). |
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| 54ms | 19 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: I just fell of the bastard. Pleasently technical my arse! | βeta? | |
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βeta: I just fell of the bastard. Pleasently technical my arse! |
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| Stig | 18 Nov, 2003 |
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βeta: I agree that some of the gear lower down is a bit dubious but bomber gear protects the crux. More importantly, it's not that thin for slabby 5a, so not 'hard' 5a. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I agree that some of the gear lower down is a bit dubious but bomber gear protects the crux. More importantly, it's not that thin for slabby 5a, so not 'hard' 5a. |
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| Monk | 13 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: I soloed it and did think the opportunities for gear were limited. Good moves though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I soloed it and did think the opportunities for gear were limited. Good moves though. |
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| Jon Greengrass | 20 Mar, 2003 |
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βeta: Ace technical climbing, Soloed this second go after reversing from what i thought was the crux first time. I'm sure i could have laced it with wires and small friend. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Ace technical climbing, Soloed this second go after reversing from what i thought was the crux first time. I'm sure i could have laced it with wires and small friend. |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 8 Apr, 2002 |
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βeta: Pleasantly technical?? I found it scary with poor gear! Eases a bit in the top half of the route though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pleasantly technical?? I found it scary with poor gear! Eases a bit in the top half of the route though. |
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Route of Interest
Inaccessible Crack
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage North)