UKC

8m.

Rockfax Description
The centre of the pocketed slab is especially taxing for the short - beware the final reachy moves. Gear is minimal! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
FA traditionally credited to Gary Gibson, but also claimed by Brian Cropper, who called it Pocket wall, with Tim Leach doing the second ascent.

See above 1978.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Best slab climbs of the UK, Grit solos hvs -e3, Slabs, grooves and technical bold not too pumpy ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alan James - UKC and UKH 17 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Hardest at an okay height for a pad. The gear on the route is terrible. The finish isn't too bad though.
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βeta: Hardest at an okay height for a pad. The gear on the route is terrible. The finish isn't too bad though.
Chris the Tall 14 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Have soloed this a few times and the top half is definately easier for the tall (steady 5b for me). When I first did it I placed a very poor friend, but reckon you're better off using the pocket as a hold. I have more problems with the lower half, particularly if I try and avoid the holds on the left. This route was originally given E2, then downgraded to HVS, but I'd stick with E1 5c
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βeta: Have soloed this a few times and the top half is definately easier for the tall (steady 5b for me). When I first did it I placed a very poor friend, but reckon you're better off using the pocket as a hold. I have more problems with the lower half, particularly if I try and avoid the holds on the left. This route was originally given E2, then downgraded to HVS, but I'd stick with E1 5c
andi_e 11 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: yeah theres no protection, its definately E3. i headpoint soloed it!
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βeta: yeah theres no protection, its definately E3. i headpoint soloed it!
ste 21 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: skyhook makes it bombproof!!
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βeta: skyhook makes it bombproof!!
Jon Greengrass 20 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: got a 1/3 of the way up and things looked to get worse, maybe you could a get a tricam in one of the pockets, surely worth more than E1?
βeta?
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βeta: got a 1/3 of the way up and things looked to get worse, maybe you could a get a tricam in one of the pockets, surely worth more than E1?

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 83
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 80
Votes cast 73
Style of Ascent
Toproped
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Mordaunt

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Cratcliffe Tor)
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