UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

14m.

Rockfax Description
The right arete of the concave wall is tackled on its left side. There is a hard move before the gear arrives. Finish on the right. © Rockfax

FA. Andy Lewondowski 1983.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
profonrock 11 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Given that most people reckon the crux is 6a, committing to this at 15-20 ft up makes this E4 ... but only just, as the landing is good and it's probably only just 6a. But don't be fooled by above comments about soloing it, unless you can cruise Edge Lane - I was well glad of small cams, medium friends and a small wire, with great climbing all the way to the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Given that most people reckon the crux is 6a, committing to this at 15-20 ft up makes this E4 ... but only just, as the landing is good and it's probably only just 6a. But don't be fooled by above comments about soloing it, unless you can cruise Edge Lane - I was well glad of small cams, medium friends and a small wire, with great climbing all the way to the top.
johnboyrevel 10 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: very nice route, but easy at the grade, if you can boulder ok u should do this..
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: very nice route, but easy at the grade, if you can boulder ok u should do this..
Andy Reeve 11 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I did take a rope and was quite glad of it. The top bit is fairly easy but I wouldn't have been so keen on soloing it since there is plenty of scope for good gear anyway.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I did take a rope and was quite glad of it. The top bit is fairly easy but I wouldn't have been so keen on soloing it since there is plenty of scope for good gear anyway.
Jus 16 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Aye, don't bother with the rope- it'll only get in the way on the boulder problem start.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Aye, don't bother with the rope- it'll only get in the way on the boulder problem start.

Logged Ascents

132 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage North

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 74 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 52
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 43
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Old Friends

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Stanage North)

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