UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
Start just right of the arete and climb past the right edge of a thin overlap. Head up to power through the final roof centrally. © Rockfax

FA. Chris Craggs 1983.

Ticklists

Jaimey's tricky slab list , Stanage Slab

Feedback

User Date Notes
Northern Mountain Monkey 27 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Also my first E1 lead. I agree that it is a good first E1 lead as the gear on the crux is good and the route is escapable. Im 6'4" and I found the roof pretty tricky as I had to get 'scrunched' up in order to reach the holds above the roof. The slab is easier than it looks (4a?) although I think there is the potential for decking out at the top of the slab. Well worth doing. NMM
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βeta: Also my first E1 lead. I agree that it is a good first E1 lead as the gear on the crux is good and the route is escapable. Im 6'4" and I found the roof pretty tricky as I had to get 'scrunched' up in order to reach the holds above the roof. The slab is easier than it looks (4a?) although I think there is the potential for decking out at the top of the slab. Well worth doing. NMM
MeMeMe 19 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: My first E1 too. Was a bit contrived but pleasant combination of delicate slab at bottom and bold roof at top. I'm 5'10" and found no problem reaching, my partner is several inches shorter and could reach okay once she found appropriate footholds.
βeta?
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βeta: My first E1 too. Was a bit contrived but pleasant combination of delicate slab at bottom and bold roof at top. I'm 5'10" and found no problem reaching, my partner is several inches shorter and could reach okay once she found appropriate footholds.
Jon Greengrass 6 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: contrived and escapable but some pleasant climbing on the slab none the less. climbing through the roof is problematical but entertaining.
βeta?
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βeta: contrived and escapable but some pleasant climbing on the slab none the less. climbing through the roof is problematical but entertaining.

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
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DNF
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Repeated
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Route of Interest
Sirplum

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Chee Dale Upper)

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