Rockfax Description
The original way of accessing the twin cracks. Start up the crack to the right of Doctor's Chimney then make a hard hand-traverse along the lowest break to reach the cracks a short distance below the jammed block. Finish steeply up the left-hand crack. Good solid hard work - not bad for 1929 - they gave it VD! © Rockfax
FA. F.Pigott, Morley Wood 1929.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Neil Ireson | 24 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Definitely worth doing, though probably not as your first VS. Can't really say I noticed much difference in grade between the direct and this version. The move at the end of the traverse has to be at least 5a. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Definitely worth doing, though probably not as your first VS. Can't really say I noticed much difference in grade between the direct and this version. The move at the end of the traverse has to be at least 5a. |
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| Reds | 25 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: Failed miserably after knackering myself on the Direct. The new BMS g | βeta? | |
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βeta: Failed miserably after knackering myself on the Direct. The new BMS g |
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| Chris Craggs | 25 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: The 1989 guide says "an easier start is possible by traversing in from DC" it doesn't say at what height. And btw - it was graded VDiff when it was 1st put up!!! Chris | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The 1989 guide says "an easier start is possible by traversing in from DC" it doesn't say at what height. And btw - it was graded VDiff when it was 1st put up!!! Chris |
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| jackie | 19 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: Really well worth doing. Even at 5'4" you can hand traverse it with your feet on good holds. Although you should be more careful than I was, in case your left foot pops on the transition move and you plummet rapidly toward the ground. Gear's good though. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Really well worth doing. Even at 5'4" you can hand traverse it with your feet on good holds. Although you should be more careful than I was, in case your left foot pops on the transition move and you plummet rapidly toward the ground. Gear's good though. |
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| Jon Greengrass | 6 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: 32 votes and no comments? A powerful route certainly and high in the grade. If you're tall 6 foot plus you can hand traverse the break with your feet on good holds, or you could climb higher and traverse on jams or like me you could be lowered off and let your stronger partner lead the route instead. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: 32 votes and no comments? A powerful route certainly and high in the grade. If you're tall 6 foot plus you can hand traverse the break with your feet on good holds, or you could climb higher and traverse on jams or like me you could be lowered off and let your stronger partner lead the route instead. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
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Chequers Buttress
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Froggatt Edge)