UKC

20m.

Rockfax Description
The original way of accessing the twin cracks. Start up the crack to the right of Doctor's Chimney then make a hard hand-traverse along the lowest break to reach the cracks a short distance below the jammed block. Finish steeply up the left-hand crack. Good solid hard work - not bad for 1929 - they gave it VD! © Rockfax

FA. F.Pigott, Morley Wood 1929.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS

Feedback

User Date Notes
Neil Ireson 24 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely worth doing, though probably not as your first VS. Can't really say I noticed much difference in grade between the direct and this version. The move at the end of the traverse has to be at least 5a.
βeta?
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βeta: Definitely worth doing, though probably not as your first VS. Can't really say I noticed much difference in grade between the direct and this version. The move at the end of the traverse has to be at least 5a.
Reds 25 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Failed miserably after knackering myself on the Direct. The new BMS g
βeta?
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βeta: Failed miserably after knackering myself on the Direct. The new BMS g
Chris Craggs 25 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The 1989 guide says "an easier start is possible by traversing in from DC" it doesn't say at what height. And btw - it was graded VDiff when it was 1st put up!!! Chris
βeta?
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βeta: The 1989 guide says "an easier start is possible by traversing in from DC" it doesn't say at what height. And btw - it was graded VDiff when it was 1st put up!!! Chris
jackie 19 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Really well worth doing. Even at 5'4" you can hand traverse it with your feet on good holds. Although you should be more careful than I was, in case your left foot pops on the transition move and you plummet rapidly toward the ground. Gear's good though.
βeta?
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βeta: Really well worth doing. Even at 5'4" you can hand traverse it with your feet on good holds. Although you should be more careful than I was, in case your left foot pops on the transition move and you plummet rapidly toward the ground. Gear's good though.
Jon Greengrass 6 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: 32 votes and no comments? A powerful route certainly and high in the grade. If you're tall 6 foot plus you can hand traverse the break with your feet on good holds, or you could climb higher and traverse on jams or like me you could be lowered off and let your stronger partner lead the route instead.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 32 votes and no comments? A powerful route certainly and high in the grade. If you're tall 6 foot plus you can hand traverse the break with your feet on good holds, or you could climb higher and traverse on jams or like me you could be lowered off and let your stronger partner lead the route instead.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 52
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 44
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Old Salt

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Stanage North)

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