UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

16m.

Rockfax Description
A worthwhile route up the left side of The Louisiana Rib. A reachy pull and delicate step from the break give a bold crux. © Rockfax

FA. Jim Perrin 1967.

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Eastern Grit E1s

Feedback

User Date Notes
Coel Hellier 5 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: OK, so I may have been off route (face of the slab, not the arete).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: OK, so I may have been off route (face of the slab, not the arete).
Pythonist 2 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Er... you do know you're supposed to use the arete, yes? One move wonder on the arete if you can reach for the obvious pinch and use a foot on the arete. Good balance moves before and after, but not much else. Mid-grade E1 5b.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Er... you do know you're supposed to use the arete, yes? One move wonder on the arete if you can reach for the obvious pinch and use a foot on the arete. Good balance moves before and after, but not much else. Mid-grade E1 5b.
Coel Hellier 19 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Precarious slab moves and quite run out -- solid E2.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Precarious slab moves and quite run out -- solid E2.
Martin Cooper 3 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I'd agree- no fierce pull but delicate and balancy
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'd agree- no fierce pull but delicate and balancy
GrahamD 8 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Just a bit escapable to be really good. I also failed to find anything resembling a fierce pull, just a balancy rock up.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Just a bit escapable to be really good. I also failed to find anything resembling a fierce pull, just a balancy rock up.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 34
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 28
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Intestate

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)

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