There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Devious and worthwhile. Climb the crack on the left then traverse to the right arete. Up this awkwardly on its left-hand side then move left into the centre of the face to finish. © Rockfax
FA. Dick Brown 1950.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Severe Stanage , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Seb's Recommendations , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Pixies Lightweight Bowline CC - VS Challenge - Stanage
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Call ._ d | 22 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Went more rightish in the gully so didnt exactly follow the line | βeta? | |
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βeta: Went more rightish in the gully so didnt exactly follow the line |
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MNA123 | 24 May, 2007 |
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βeta: Felt really easy for the grade, gear is good when needed. Run out after crux but easy climbing. Nice route! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Felt really easy for the grade, gear is good when needed. Run out after crux but easy climbing. Nice route! |
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alan moore | 12 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: This is hard but twin chimneys buttress is easy. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: This is hard but twin chimneys buttress is easy. |
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leon | 6 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: you can protect the move but it gets a bit run out (gear a bit below feet?) on the bit they've been talking about. positive holds the whole, a great route. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: you can protect the move but it gets a bit run out (gear a bit below feet?) on the bit they've been talking about. positive holds the whole, a great route. |
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nigel pearson | 6 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: A lovely route. Delicate moves, with quite a bold feel about it, although the gear is actually very good. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A lovely route. Delicate moves, with quite a bold feel about it, although the gear is actually very good. |
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shaun walby | 14 Aug, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Easy start up the crack and traverse out right,rig up some bomber gear (two cams stitched together)and take the crux.I didnt find it reachy just a tad bold as you have to trust a slightly delicate smear above you gear. If your footworks good its a breeze. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Easy start up the crack and traverse out right,rig up some bomber gear (two cams stitched together)and take the crux.I didnt find it reachy just a tad bold as you have to trust a slightly delicate smear above you gear. If your footworks good its a breeze. |
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Monk | 26 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: You can protect that move! You are moving up from a big fat break that takes friends. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: You can protect that move! You are moving up from a big fat break that takes friends. |
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Simon Caldwell | 14 Jul, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Would have liked better protection (ie not below my feet) for the hard move up the arete! Would be a 3 star route if it weren't for the ease of escape into Mississippi Chimney. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Would have liked better protection (ie not below my feet) for the hard move up the arete! Would be a 3 star route if it weren't for the ease of escape into Mississippi Chimney. |
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Grade: VS 5a ***
(Kinder Southern Edges)