UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

14m.

Rockfax Description
The crack in the right side of the wall is the line. It is juggy and well protected. A few slings for threads might be found useful. © Rockfax

FA. Eric Byne early 1930s.

Ticklists

Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , 100 Stanage stars , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , King of VDiff , Chatsworth to Bamford , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , 50 of the Best , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , Stanage Popular Greens , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Welcome to CUMC , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , The Gritlist , Severe Stanage , Beginner Peak Severe , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Stanage Solo , Stanage Severe Challenge , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 30 Stars at Stanage , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Stanage green spot starters , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , LD's next grit trip(s) , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 S , LSMC to do , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , Stanage Severes (UKC) , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Peaky , Seb's Recommendations , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , Stanage Ticklist , Stanage Green Spot Challenge , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
EdJHarley 28 Nov, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic threads
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic threads
PaulJepson 24 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Don't understand the comment below about needing cams; I carry a full set and didnt place a single one because there were multiple perfect nut placements every meter or so.
Show beta
βeta: Don't understand the comment below about needing cams; I carry a full set and didnt place a single one because there were multiple perfect nut placements every meter or so.
FelixCurrell 14 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Really good route with good feet and holds but tricky with no cams
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really good route with good feet and holds but tricky with no cams
Alex Yeo 29 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Great little climb ????????
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great little climb ????????
Andi_FJ 30 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: fantastic to protect with smaller nuts and one or two 120cm slings. Nice climb!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: fantastic to protect with smaller nuts and one or two 120cm slings. Nice climb!
parched 28 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Can be protected easily with just hexes
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Can be protected easily with just hexes
Katie Weston 26 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Absolutely fabulous climb, I have yet to tire of doing it, the gear is good by the hard moves, just don't be foolish like some people and take no slings, you really do use them!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Absolutely fabulous climb, I have yet to tire of doing it, the gear is good by the hard moves, just don't be foolish like some people and take no slings, you really do use them!
Ander 13 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: mmm... seem to be in the minority here, though certainly worthy of one star, I can't honestly give it more than that
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: mmm... seem to be in the minority here, though certainly worthy of one star, I can't honestly give it more than that
gav p 21 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: It is steep, polished and well protected using cams and wires.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It is steep, polished and well protected using cams and wires.

Logged Ascents

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High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 427
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 386
Votes cast 419
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
DWS
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Long Climb

Grade: S 4a ***
(Laddow)

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