UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
The crack in the right side of the wall is the line. It is juggy and well protected. A few slings for threads might be found useful. © Rockfax

FA. Eric Byne early 1930s.

Ticklists

Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , 100 Stanage stars , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , King of VDiff , Chatsworth to Bamford , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , 50 of the Best , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , Stanage Popular Greens , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Welcome to CUMC , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , The Gritlist , Severe Stanage , Beginner Peak Severe , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Stanage Solo , Stanage Severe Challenge , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 30 Stars at Stanage , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Stanage green spot starters , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , LD's next grit trip(s) , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 S , LSMC to do , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , Stanage Severes (UKC) , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Peaky , Seb's Recommendations , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , Stanage Ticklist , Stanage Green Spot Challenge

Feedback

User Date Notes
EdJHarley 28 Nov, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic threads
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic threads
PaulJepson 24 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Don't understand the comment below about needing cams; I carry a full set and didnt place a single one because there were multiple perfect nut placements every meter or so.
Show beta
βeta: Don't understand the comment below about needing cams; I carry a full set and didnt place a single one because there were multiple perfect nut placements every meter or so.
FelixCurrell 14 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Really good route with good feet and holds but tricky with no cams
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really good route with good feet and holds but tricky with no cams
Alex Yeo 29 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Great little climb ????????
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great little climb ????????
Andi_FJ 30 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: fantastic to protect with smaller nuts and one or two 120cm slings. Nice climb!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: fantastic to protect with smaller nuts and one or two 120cm slings. Nice climb!
parched 28 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Can be protected easily with just hexes
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Can be protected easily with just hexes
Katie Weston 26 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Absolutely fabulous climb, I have yet to tire of doing it, the gear is good by the hard moves, just don't be foolish like some people and take no slings, you really do use them!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Absolutely fabulous climb, I have yet to tire of doing it, the gear is good by the hard moves, just don't be foolish like some people and take no slings, you really do use them!
Ander 13 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: mmm... seem to be in the minority here, though certainly worthy of one star, I can't honestly give it more than that
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: mmm... seem to be in the minority here, though certainly worthy of one star, I can't honestly give it more than that
gav p 21 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: It is steep, polished and well protected using cams and wires.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It is steep, polished and well protected using cams and wires.

Logged Ascents

6542 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 486 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 424
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 383
Votes cast 415
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
DWS
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Balcony Buttress

Grade: S 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)

Loading Notifications...