UKC

16m.

Rockfax Description
An exciting route across the left-hand side of the roof. Climb the slab to the curving flake in the overhang, then using fat jams (large cam protection) trend to the right to finish just right of the nose on good holds. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 1978.

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Stanage Popular , The Gary Gibson Stranglers Playlist , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1

Feedback

User Date Notes
Pythonist 22 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Didn't find this too much more difficult than FDB, didn't use jams, and thought it was as good as FBD... Great roof route with good moves, and a bit wild. Would love to try Flying Butt now, just for the finale!
Show beta
βeta: Didn't find this too much more difficult than FDB, didn't use jams, and thought it was as good as FBD... Great roof route with good moves, and a bit wild. Would love to try Flying Butt now, just for the finale!
nate 17 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Much harder then FBD maybe because im short? Nice tho...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Much harder then FBD maybe because im short? Nice tho...
Peter Rhodes 29 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I found this considerably harder than Flying Buttress Direct, I get the feeling that this is the real 5b.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I found this considerably harder than Flying Buttress Direct, I get the feeling that this is the real 5b.
UKB Shark 1 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Searched in vain for the fist jams - quite disappointed not find them in a strange way.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Searched in vain for the fist jams - quite disappointed not find them in a strange way.

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 30
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Eye of Faith

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Gardom's Edge)

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