UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

10m.

Rockfax Description
The flake crack in the left-hand wall of the descent gully is an ever-popular mini-classic. Layback the flakes to a tricky exit always pausing to place a few runners along the way. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , UK's best Diffs and V.diffs , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , 100 Stanage stars , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , World Graded List , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , Chatsworth to Bamford , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage Starred VDiffs , ULMC Classics , 50 of the Best , MUMC Ticklist , 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , Stanage Popular Greens , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Welcome to CUMC , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 - First ten , Stanage 'Difficults' , Adele & Dave , Peak diff and vdiff starred routes and top 50 , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Stanage Solo , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Stanage green spot starters , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , The Wishlist Challenge , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , Innominata Mountain Club 30th Anniversary Peak District List , Seb's Recommendations , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes , Stanage Ticklist , Grit Starred routes aspirations 2023 , Stanage Green Spot Challenge , UKC Gritstone Top 20 Wishlist Climbs , Stanage 1956 , Stanage solos , (V)Diffs to end all (V)Diffs

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dannyy 21 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Good route and fun moves
βeta?
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βeta: Good route and fun moves
Andrew_Bylina 10 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Beautiful Flakes
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Beautiful Flakes
SuePearson 31 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: One of my favourite Stanage routes, I don't like cracks but this is Heaven
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of my favourite Stanage routes, I don't like cracks but this is Heaven
Iain Thow 21 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Simply the best V Diff on grit (or anywhere? maybe Squareface or Commando Ridge compete?)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Simply the best V Diff on grit (or anywhere? maybe Squareface or Commando Ridge compete?)
alan moore 12 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This route rules. It rules!
βeta?
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βeta: This route rules. It rules!
Mutl3y 24 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: One of the best routes on grit. If you climb VS like I did then it makes a fantastic solo. Very secure feeling. A must for everyone.
βeta?
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βeta: One of the best routes on grit. If you climb VS like I did then it makes a fantastic solo. Very secure feeling. A must for everyone.
Alex Mason 24 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: i thought it was really easy for v diff soloed it today there isnt one slightly hard move all really secure.
βeta?
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βeta: i thought it was really easy for v diff soloed it today there isnt one slightly hard move all really secure.
Robo 17 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: If only if it were twice as long.
βeta?
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βeta: If only if it were twice as long.
stu 16 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Soloed this today, don't think I have ever enjoyed a Vdiff so much. Absolute classic.
βeta?
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βeta: Soloed this today, don't think I have ever enjoyed a Vdiff so much. Absolute classic.
Chris Davids 4 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: "insitu rotting gear"? It would appear it's gone.
βeta?
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βeta: "insitu rotting gear"? It would appear it's gone.
Big Steve 10 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Thebest vdiff Ive done, thoroughly enjoyed it from beginning to end. Just wish it was longer
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Thebest vdiff Ive done, thoroughly enjoyed it from beginning to end. Just wish it was longer
alan moore 31 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: This is the best route in the world.
βeta?
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βeta: This is the best route in the world.
Si dH 3 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: soloed this today along with about 5 other stanage vdiffs, and it was definitely the easiest. Dunno what you lot are on about, huge jugs all the way up, although ok its steep, but jus tkeep going! Hard Diff.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: soloed this today along with about 5 other stanage vdiffs, and it was definitely the easiest. Dunno what you lot are on about, huge jugs all the way up, although ok its steep, but jus tkeep going! Hard Diff.
victim of mathematics 9 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: the best vdiff on stanage?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the best vdiff on stanage?

Logged Ascents

5980 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 735 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
Votes cast 464
Votes cast 470
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Verandah Cracks Inside Route

Grade: VD ***
(Stanage Popular)

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