UKC

16m.

Rockfax Description
Devious, hard work and excellent. Start up the centre of the lower wall but swing right (poor wires) under the roofs to a rest on the right. Traverse the narrow hanging wall leftwards (gripping and hard for long legs) until past the arete. Cross the final overhang using the flake in the nose or the breaks just left. © Rockfax

FA. Ed Drummond (one big peg 1971). FFA. John Allen 1973.

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, John Allen (gritstone) megamix

Feedback

User Date Notes
tomwhite91 27 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Really nice moves at the start, went full punter when all bunched up and came off
βeta?
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βeta: Really nice moves at the start, went full punter when all bunched up and came off
Fiend 21 Dec, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Lower section has nice moves and well protected by good small cams. Well worth heeding the advice about the rest on the right, I didn't rest and failed on the top roof due to being very pumped and very sweaty.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lower section has nice moves and well protected by good small cams. Well worth heeding the advice about the rest on the right, I didn't rest and failed on the top roof due to being very pumped and very sweaty.
UKB Shark 4 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Good route. The wire in the first traverse right can be lodged in/backed up with a small cam. Top traverse cramped and a bit intimidating despite good pro. Watch for rope drag and ropes getting jammed in cracks when belaying.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good route. The wire in the first traverse right can be lodged in/backed up with a small cam. Top traverse cramped and a bit intimidating despite good pro. Watch for rope drag and ropes getting jammed in cracks when belaying.
Ged Desforges 6 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: bottom section ok but unprotected (the nut behind the flake falls out pretty easy). top bit safe but pretty gripping, pumpy, and hard if you've got long legs.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: bottom section ok but unprotected (the nut behind the flake falls out pretty easy). top bit safe but pretty gripping, pumpy, and hard if you've got long legs.

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 24
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
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Votes cast 25
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Robert Brown

Grade: E3 5c ***
(High Tor)
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