46m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb route which for many years had a reputation for poor gear, however, protection on the whole is good and the old, bold section can be protected by slight diversion to the right. The first pitch is good value.
1) 5c, 23m. Climb the groove past an assortment of pegs, and good wires, until the crack runs out (old bolts up and left). Step right to ledges and move up to hidden slots where good protection is available (large-ish cams). Either drop back down, step left and back up, or simply move left from the gear to gain the hanging groove (peg). Clip the extended peg above and make a hard pull into a hanging groove. Pull out left to a stance and belay on wires (on Delicatessen).
2) 5b, 23m. Another fine pitch. Follow the cracks above and continue through the crux of pitch 2 of Debauchery. Finish direct up a short groove. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Bancroft, Adey Hubbard 1975. The first free-climbing bolt on Derbyshire limestone placed by my old Chemistry teacher.

Ticklists: The High Tor Top Ten, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, World Graded List, Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The 30 best E3 routes in the UK?, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Hidden 17/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Simon Davis 06/Aug/17 Lead rpt

Clean P1 this time.

with Andrew James
Neil McA 31/May/17 AltLd rpt

P1 feels harder each time! 5th time on the route over 4 decades. Only led pitch 2 this time.

with andy mitchell
JayAyBee 22/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Did 1st pitch, felt hard and bold (never came across the cams out to the right so ran it out on the rusty bolt and coat hanger)

with Pat
AlexD 22/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with Ed
Ed Babs 22/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

P1. Loving the coat hanger pro.

with AlexD
bigdrew 10/Jul/16 Lead rpt

First pitch as Nightmare start.

with Eve
samt 05/Jul/16 Lead O/S

I led P1, nic led P2. Stunning evening.

with Nic Kidd
ukb & bmc shark 30/Jun/16 AltLd rpt
with Jon Fullwood
Louishmouis 18/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with theo
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 18/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

p2 which was still quite tricky

with Louis
Hidden 30/May/16 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 14/May/16 Lead O/S
Andy Moles 13/Apr/16 2nd

Seconded the meat of the route up to its junction with Fantasia.

with Ben Silvestre
Hannes B 19/Nov/15 Lead O/S
with Tom
Duncan Campbell 20/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Brilliant. Lead p1 quite a lot of kit low down but a bit of a tricky runout to get to the cam slots before pulling into the groove - would be VERY bold if you don't go up and put these in. Though you'd be less pumped and you would only fall off up there if you were pumped. Mega classic

Brannock 20/Sep/15 AltLd rpt

Pitch 2

miastacey 13/Sep/15 Lead rpt
with Toby Dunn
spidermonkey09 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Jesus. This felt bloody desperate. Led in one pitch due to reasons of time/Sam not fancying seconding it, maybe this is why. That said, the top half is fine, but the bottom half felt hard as nails, and the crucial peg is pretty abysmal now. Cam protection is ok but not sure I totally trusted it. Fantastic climbing though, and really chuffed to get it done. Felt like the hardest route I've climbed.

eel 16/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Duncan
Mark Stevenson 25/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 25/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Mark Stevenson
Hidden 06/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
rocksol ??/2015 -
Brannock 28/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Backed off first pitch, pretty hard, led second, not to easy!

Misha 28/Sep/14 AltLd

Six months almost to the day since doing it for the first time. Still hard, committing and brilliant! This time just led the first pitch so got to enjoy the second on the blunt end.

dannyboy83 13/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Lovely route and far better protected than the guidebook description suggests.

phil64 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S

superb sustained pitch, continuously hard with no let up on pitch 1!

with matt dean
tim newton 25/May/14 AltLd O/S
with gwen lancashire
Ally Smith 17/May/14 Lead O/S
with GrantB
GrantB 17/May/14 2nd
Apharri 23/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Led 1

with Jim Gayler
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 01/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Climbed as a single pitch

with Ben Silvestre
Misha 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Mega! Hard in a single push as the second trad route of the season but life needs to be challenging! Lots of 5c with some 5b followed by an easy section and then lots of 5b with some 5a, giving a hard E3 pitch overall. The initial groove is technical and sustained at 5b/c. The old bolts are just coat hangers but there is a good BD cam 0.75 below them, then a good cam 2 in the hidden break and finally a good cam 1 at the crux (as well as tat extended from an ancient peg - wouldn't trust it), so good gear even if it feels a bit bold. The crux requires commitment and is pretty hard. Thankfully easier above but done in a single push you start to feel it higher up even though it's only 5b. Interest is maintained all the way. I started at 6pm after James spent a while doing Original Route and topped out at 7.15pm. James still had daylight for the hard section but it started getting dusky as he emerged above the bulge and the last third was distinctly mirky for him! He topped out at 8.25pm, a great effort even if he had a fair few rests. Abbed off in the dark - got the most out of the day there!

with James
mike mo ??/2014 -
harvie ??/2014 Lead O/S
Neil McA 22/Sep/13 AltLd rpt

Did a great link up using P1 of Lyme Cryme then P2 & P3 of Nightmare giving a super sustained top end E3 with 3 x E3 pitches, possibly the longest most sustained E3 in the Peak in this form?

with Sophie White, Jon Morgan
soph 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Neil McAdie, jon morgan
morganator 22/Sep/13 2nd rpt
with Neil McAdie, Sophie Whyte
piken 03/Sep/13 Lead O/S

in one pitch -

Simon Davis 18/Aug/13 Lead dog

Slumped onto gear at crux...

with Tim P
Si dH 15/Jun/13 AltLd dog

Led first pitch. Fell off the crux twice then got it third go. Found it pretty hard and below that very bold. The cams round to the right are good but by the time you get to them there are only two easy moves left to get to the gear at the crux - its still scary up to there so not sure the latest peak rockfax description is really true!!

with Andy
Nickc ??/2013 -
ukb & bmc shark 29/Sep/12 AltLd

Led first pitch as Wil backed. Move in top groove harder than I remeber

with Wil Treasure
Wil Treasure 29/Sep/12 AltLd

Backed off first pitch as I got a bit spooked by the bolt, great top pitch.

JBO 28/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Was surprised how great this climb was, the first pitch had some quality climbing on it. Felt the second pitch deserves 5c too though. Tough E3.

Chi Cheng 06/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Only did the 1st pitch as it started to rain. Had to about for gear. My 50m ropes did not reach the ground so had to climb back up the ropes.

masa-alpin 05/Aug/12 Lead dog

Took a fall at the crux as I was pumped. Gutted. I found it was harder for (very) shorties, though the grade doesn't change. Fantastic route!

with Lee P
bigdrew 22/Jul/12 AltLd

Led P2, Badly..

Martin Cooper 20/Jun/12 2nd dog

Hard and bold P1. P2 E2 5b

with Neil
Neil McA 19/Jun/12 Lead rpt

Led both pitches, stood the test of time - both me and the route - 30 years since my last lead of the route!

with martin cooper
Pete Graham 10/Jun/12 2nd
with Howard Lawledge
Howard Lawledge ?/Jun/12 Lead

in one

with Pete Graham
davewsargent 23/May/12 2nd dog
with paul
markalmack 12/May/12 Lead O/S

linked into 1 long pitch. went a bit off route at the top...

david morse 12/May/12 2nd dog

One slip near the top

mark20 10/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Good varied climbing all the way

Hidden 10/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
bigdrew 03/Jul/11 2nd O/S

First pitch only to get to the start of Delicatessen

Dave Bond 29/Jun/11 AltLd

Led 1st pitch

with Simon Wren
Hidden 09/Jun/11 AltLd
metal arms 12/Sep/10 AltLd dog

Rested on the tat & cam before pulling into the groove. Kate cruised top pitch.

Hidden 09/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 11/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/10 AltLd rpt
nickcanute ??/2010 Lead
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Somerset swede basher 17/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
with Dan Wicks
Daniel Wicks 17/Oct/09 AltLd
with Dom
feilx 12/Sep/09 2nd O/S

done in one pitch

with Andy L
Hidden 11/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/09 AltLd
Alex Mason 09/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Led first pitch. Hard for E3 on seriously dubious fixed gear and hard, pumpy climbing. (also seconded original route and highlight)

with tony M
Adam Ellwood 30/May/09 Lead O/S
DavidEvans 23/May/09 Lead O/S

Led Pitch 2

willackers 18/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Lead the top pitch, amazing climbing!

with Tom Mills
alaan 10/May/08 AltLd
with Aly
Brown 03/May/08 AltLd O/S
with Henry
Hidden 24/Jul/07 Lead
Hidden 27/Apr/07 AltLd
craig d ?/Apr/07 Lead
with Mark Bridgman-Smith
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 16/May/06 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2006 -
Boy ??/2006 -
ukb & bmc shark 22/Jul/05 Lead rpt

first pitch only finishing up Nightmare

with Mike Garton
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 28/May/05 2nd rpt
with Eric Hildrew
nickdonohue ??/2004 Lead

Blew clean lead - pulled into hanging groove but then feeling precarious grabbed in-situ sling; wish I hadn't!

with Andy Neath
Dave Bond 24/Sep/03 AltLd
with Simon Wren
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S

Finished in the dark

with Martin Peters
nickdonohue ??/2003 Lead dnf
with Mike Thorpe
Simonfarfaraway ??/2003 AltLd O/S

Hard route

with Dave A
Hidden 30/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/02 AltLd
pete johnson 21/Apr/02 -
with Kevin Sales
Hidden ?/May/01 AltLd
tuftynick ??/2001 -
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead
Hidden ?/May/00 -
Hidden 27/Apr/00 Lead RP
steepstuff ??/2000 -
Steve Bell ??/2000 -
GeoffG 02/Apr/99 AltLd
Stoney Boy 22/Sep/98 Lead O/S

Pitch 1

with Neil McCallum
sadams 22/Mar/98 AltLd
with Pete Bukowski
Billg ??/1998 Lead rpt
with Shaun James
Hidden 19/Oct/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/97 Lead
duncan ??/1997 Lead rpt
sadams 03/Aug/96 AltLd
with Hugh Cottom
ste_d 15/Jun/96 Lead O/S
with mik
nokishatov 15/Jun/96 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 20/Sep/95 AltLd
with David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 20/Sep/95 AltLd O/S
with Dad
Hidden 23/Apr/95 AltLd
Hidden 22/Jun/94 Lead
Graeme Smithy ?/Jun/94 Lead O/S

Remember botom wall being quite hard - the move at the top past the old bolt seemed fine

OMSKB ??/1994 AltLd
with Richard Winfield
Robmwatt ??/1994 -
rob.grafton 09/May/93 Lead
with Bruce
Roget 13/Sep/92 Lead O/S
with jon
Bruce Kerr 20/Jun/92 AltLd
Hidden 17/May/92 Lead
Rich Kirby 03/May/92 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/91 AltLd
Hidden 20/Sep/91 AltLd
keefe 10/Aug/91 -
whispering nic ??/1991 2nd β
with Graham Iles
Hidden ??/1990 -
Pete Ogden ??/1990 -
with Dave Ramsey
Hidden 04/Jun/89 AltLd
Hidden 13/Apr/89 AltLd dog
Hidden 13/Apr/89 AltLd
Hidden 13/Apr/89 AltLd
DDDD ??/1989 Lead O/S
Andy Edgar ??/1989 -

found the whole first pitch tough all the way

with Hugh Woodland
Dave Musgrove 23/Oct/88 Lead dnf

Crux wet - backed off.

with Frank Wilkinson
William Robertson ?/Sep/88 Lead O/S
with Emily
Gordon Stainforth 25/Jun/88 2nd dnf

Lowered from c.40 ft up the first pitch. Far too hard for me = desperate!

with Al Churcher
charlesmfrench 08/May/88 Lead RP
with Ian Milne
andybirtwistle 19/Sep/87 2nd
with Ian Kyle
Hidden 20/Aug/87 Lead
Hidden 16/May/87 AltLd
AlexRenshaw 20/Apr/87 2nd
with Dor? Green
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1987 2nd
with John Adams
Hidden ??/1987 AltLd
Hidden 10/Jul/86 AltLd dog
Hidden ?/May/86 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1986 AltLd
Eduardo Martinez ??/1986 Lead O/S
Derek Furze ??/1986 -
sadams 08/Jun/85 Lead O/S
with Kevin Edwards
Hidden 06/Apr/85 Lead
ukb & bmc shark 05/Apr/85 Lead
with Howard
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Seb Grieve ??/1985 -
with Paul Helpstock
ukb & bmc shark 21/Oct/84 Lead dnf
with Phill Dickens
Neil McA 13/Sep/84 2nd rpt

Followed both pitches

with 'jonathan'
neilh 07/Aug/84 2nd
with simon webster
Mike Owen 28/Mar/84 Lead O/S
with Simon King
Andy Nicholson ??/1984 AltLd O/S
with Derek Hersey
jonathan shepherd ?/Aug/83 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ??/1983 Lead O/S
with John Meyers, John Kirk, Mick Ward, Mick Bailey, Rich Lewis
Gezzer ??/1983 AltLd O/S
with Andy Towne
Neil McA 30/Jun/82 Lead O/S

Led both pitches

with Flog
Hidden 30/Jun/82 -
Hidden ??/1982 AltLd
mitch1960 ??/1982 Lead
with Dave Fernig, Howard tingle
Mark Kemball 07/Jun/81 -
with John Jefferies
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 2nd
with Derek Hersey
duncan ??/1981 Lead O/S
paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
uphillnow ??/1980 -

alt leads with charlie French, another occasion with cotton wall eric and larry parks.Also with my son Graeme Smith

Paul Clarke ??/1980 AltLd
with FMC
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
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