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18m.

Rockfax Description
The blunt arete has a bit of a bold start. Slippery moves gain the arete, then a detached block. Another tricky move gains the upper section which soon eases. © Rockfax

FA. Lewis Coxon 1922.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide), Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Stanage Popular, The Gritlist

Feedback

User Date Notes
deepsoup 18 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I did this route today (very nice) - and if the block wasn't moving before it is now. (Only very slightly though, under the extreme provocation of my enormous bodyweight.) I resisted the temptation to put gear behind it on the grounds that I'd rather deck than deck and then be squashed by a falling boulder! Once you've got hold of the block its dead easy to mantle up onto it, and theres a good bit of gear not far above it.
βeta?
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βeta: I did this route today (very nice) - and if the block wasn't moving before it is now. (Only very slightly though, under the extreme provocation of my enormous bodyweight.) I resisted the temptation to put gear behind it on the grounds that I'd rather deck than deck and then be squashed by a falling boulder! Once you've got hold of the block its dead easy to mantle up onto it, and theres a good bit of gear not far above it.
Byronius Maximus 17 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Is the block actually detached? Surely it would have come off if anyone's ever fallen on to gear placed behind it (which is likely since the crux is just above from memory). Anyway, great route, didn't really notice any polish at the bottom.
βeta?
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βeta: Is the block actually detached? Surely it would have come off if anyone's ever fallen on to gear placed behind it (which is likely since the crux is just above from memory). Anyway, great route, didn't really notice any polish at the bottom.
Si dH 11 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: HVS 5a in the Stanage guide. I certainly dont think its 5a, did anyone else find the lower section wit hall its polish harder tha nthe supposed crux off the block? I did find it very bold though, I wasnt keen on the cams in the slot below the block and so felt like I didnt really have anything until I got tot he block (7-8m?). Dont see a problem in whacking a big nut behind the block as I did, it aint moving.
βeta?
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βeta: HVS 5a in the Stanage guide. I certainly dont think its 5a, did anyone else find the lower section wit hall its polish harder tha nthe supposed crux off the block? I did find it very bold though, I wasnt keen on the cams in the slot below the block and so felt like I didnt really have anything until I got tot he block (7-8m?). Dont see a problem in whacking a big nut behind the block as I did, it aint moving.
Jon Greengrass 20 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Is putting gear behind the detached block a good idea? actually most of the placements sounded a bit hollow.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Is putting gear behind the detached block a good idea? actually most of the placements sounded a bit hollow.

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
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Route of Interest

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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Castle Naze)