UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

20m.

Rockfax Description
Follow Bishop's Route to the ledge then step out right and climb the well-positioned flake crack in the arete to a finish on flutings. © Rockfax

FA. John Loy early 1960s.

Ticklists

Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular , Stanage Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , Stanage HS Challenge

Feedback

User Date Notes
Albie 11 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed this on saturday - way too cold for climbing but what can you do. Going straight up from the first ledge is definately the way to go. Looks harder than it actually is and is certainly the only section of the climb that gives it the VS grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed this on saturday - way too cold for climbing but what can you do. Going straight up from the first ledge is definately the way to go. Looks harder than it actually is and is certainly the only section of the climb that gives it the VS grade.
Simon Caldwell 7 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Which ledge? Is it the one with the holly on, or the one above that? Going by the old definitive guide it's the latter, and you step right into the crack. In which case I can't see why this gets VS 4b, it felt more like Severe to me, HS 4b at most (well protected and not sustained). Conversely, if you are supposed to access the crack direct from the first ledge, it's much harder than the grade!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Which ledge? Is it the one with the holly on, or the one above that? Going by the old definitive guide it's the latter, and you step right into the crack. In which case I can't see why this gets VS 4b, it felt more like Severe to me, HS 4b at most (well protected and not sustained). Conversely, if you are supposed to access the crack direct from the first ledge, it's much harder than the grade!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 88
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 81
Votes cast 83
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Upper Tor Wall

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Kinder Southern Edges)

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