UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

26m.

Rockfax Description
An engaging romp. From the base of Zig-zag Flake Crack climb the left-leaning crack to a ledge. Continue up the corner to a higher ledge then make tricky moves to the flakes above. Climb these to a horizontal break and finish direct with a stretch. © Rockfax

FA. Henry Bishop 1920s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , Chatsworth to Bamford , 50 of the Best , 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , Stanage Popular Greens , Stanage Wishlist , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 - First ten , Adele & Dave , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Severe Stanage , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Stanage Solo , Stanage Severe Challenge , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Routes Chloe would recommend , 30 Stars at Stanage , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Stanage green spot starters , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 S , Innominata Mountain Club 30th Anniversary Peak District List , Stanage Severes (UKC) , Peaky , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes , Stanage Green Spot Challenge , Diffage Comp , Morgan's List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Aither 31 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Great route worthy of the rating !
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route worthy of the rating !
Sue Hasel 6 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The lower section gives the hardest climbing but is well protected with cams. Great varied and enjoyable route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The lower section gives the hardest climbing but is well protected with cams. Great varied and enjoyable route
SuePearson 31 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely route, almost like 3 routes in one
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely route, almost like 3 routes in one
Jonathan T 2 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Good route. There is a "plate" at the top although part of it has broke off.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good route. There is a "plate" at the top although part of it has broke off.
Swirly 20 Dec, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route, deserves everyone of its stars.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route, deserves everyone of its stars.

Logged Ascents

4353 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 510 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 301
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 266
Votes cast 293
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Balcony Buttress

Grade: S 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)

Loading Notifications...