UKC

20m.

Rockfax Description
The tall straight flake is wide, awkward and slippery but cams in the horizontal breaks make it safe enough. Swarm up the flake to a high ledge with a huge wobbly block and finish up the short wall behind, or step left onto the arete for more exposure. © Rockfax

FA. Herbert Hartley 1929.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , 14 In A Day , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , The Gritlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Pixies Lightweight Bowline CC - VS Challenge - Stanage , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook , Stanage 1956 , 100 Stars at Stanage

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User Date Notes
Felixch 25 May, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: There was a bird nesting deep in the crack, probably worth avoiding for a while
Show beta
βeta: There was a bird nesting deep in the crack, probably worth avoiding for a while
Capricorn One 3 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: #4 cam gets you into the crack, #2 protects the crux.
Show beta
βeta: #4 cam gets you into the crack, #2 protects the crux.
THE.WALRUS 26 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: I found the crux almost unclimbable.
Show beta
βeta: I found the crux almost unclimbable.
Gripped 25 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The polish stops after the awkward move; there are tales in that somewhere. I backed off this on a grey, damp, November day a few months after starting to climb (severe!). Great to finally do it.
Show beta
βeta: The polish stops after the awkward move; there are tales in that somewhere. I backed off this on a grey, damp, November day a few months after starting to climb (severe!). Great to finally do it.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 137
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 139
Votes cast 133
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Birch Tree Wall

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Black Rocks)

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