UKC

30m.

Rockfax Description
An amazingly-positioned route which gives sustained climbing up the wall below Pleasure Dome after a devious start. The rib at the bottom is often wet and greasy. It has seen few ascents in recent years and may well be bolder now that the peg is old. Start below the short leaning wall and make a juggy traverse right into a corner. Move up and right to reach the (wet) rib. Climb this until it is possible to swing left onto the face (old peg - not crucial). Continue direct above to the base of the ramp on Pleasure Dome. Move rightwards up the wall to reach easier ground, and the top. The original start was from a hanging stance in the chimney but this is an uncomfortable stance and your belayer is above you when you start climbing the rib. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 27/Sep/1987.

Ticklists

101Pembroke Extremes, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5

Feedback

User Date Notes
Si Witcher 16 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The Direct Start described in the CC guide is actually a lot less direct than the original and eventually leads to the same hands-off rest in the chimney. However, it avoids the need for a hanging belay.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The Direct Start described in the CC guide is actually a lot less direct than the original and eventually leads to the same hands-off rest in the chimney. However, it avoids the need for a hanging belay.
craig h 11 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Superb, honest but strenuous climbing. The direct start at the same grade is ment to be better!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb, honest but strenuous climbing. The direct start at the same grade is ment to be better!

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Route of Interest

Humpty Dumpty

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Greenham Common)
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