UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

There may be a temporary restriction on the route 'Hercules' due to nesting chough - look for on site signs and avoid this route if chough activity around the hole in the brown pillar adjacent to the first half of the route.

33m.

Rockfax Description
A fine climb up the tall corner above a small cave, where the ledge below the cliff drops down. Climb the corner then move back left and make a grovelling pull onto a ledge (possible belay). Move up and right into the higher corner and climb this to the top. © Rockfax

FA. J.Williams, M.Harber 12/Aug/1978.

Ticklists

Ultimate HVS ticklist , Pembroke VDiff-HVS , Pembs Classics

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User Date Notes
mikkistorey 27 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax shows the route on the right, going up the corner and crack, so I went that way. Good wires on the left, felt avout hvs. The old climbers club guide describes climbing the shallow groove on the left and many people at the crag claimed that to be tje correct way. Looks easier, but I haven't tried it. Something to go back for.
βeta?
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βeta: Rockfax shows the route on the right, going up the corner and crack, so I went that way. Good wires on the left, felt avout hvs. The old climbers club guide describes climbing the shallow groove on the left and many people at the crag claimed that to be tje correct way. Looks easier, but I haven't tried it. Something to go back for.
Fiend 27 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A nice route up the attractively "switching" groovelines. The swing leftwards detracts a bit from this line but otherwise the climbing is good.
βeta?
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βeta: A nice route up the attractively "switching" groovelines. The swing leftwards detracts a bit from this line but otherwise the climbing is good.
Kyuzo 26 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I found this awkward to climb and hard to protect (at least the first half) compared to Manzoku. My interpretation of the guidebook was that you're meant to follow the corner rather than the arete (as someone else commented above).
βeta?
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βeta: I found this awkward to climb and hard to protect (at least the first half) compared to Manzoku. My interpretation of the guidebook was that you're meant to follow the corner rather than the arete (as someone else commented above).
geoffgo21 13 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Only VS
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Only VS
drcorbasisgod 9 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I think I started out wrong but may have found a route more consistent with the grade - instead of ambling up the arete, walk round to the right and climb the big corner.
βeta?
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βeta: I think I started out wrong but may have found a route more consistent with the grade - instead of ambling up the arete, walk round to the right and climb the big corner.
John Alcock 1 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Well protected with two awkward moves. If you grab the ledge at half height, it's much easier to mantle onto it if you keep moving left.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Well protected with two awkward moves. If you grab the ledge at half height, it's much easier to mantle onto it if you keep moving left.
chris j 11 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Fun :o)
βeta?
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βeta: Fun :o)
Albie 3 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: First HVS of the season and I only attempted it because there was a queue on Limbo [VS]. Nice easy start with plenty of excitement on the crux. I was amazed at how many juggy handholds there were and plenty of gear placements - totally safe. Though I finally ran out of puff on the sustained upper section and was forced to rest on my gear. Though having rested I could appreciate the the overhanging finnish with the big handholds.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First HVS of the season and I only attempted it because there was a queue on Limbo [VS]. Nice easy start with plenty of excitement on the crux. I was amazed at how many juggy handholds there were and plenty of gear placements - totally safe. Though I finally ran out of puff on the sustained upper section and was forced to rest on my gear. Though having rested I could appreciate the the overhanging finnish with the big handholds.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stennis Head

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 186
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 180
Votes cast 176
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Galactic Co-ordinator

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Triple Overhang Buttress)

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