Rockfax Description
'Satisfaction' in Japanese - the wall left of the arete is superb, popular, polished and usually occupied. Move up to the break below and right of the cave. Traverse this rightwards until it is possible to pull up left into a groove. Move back slightly right to another groove then make a tricky move up left to gain good holds. Follow the wall above on some amazing juggy rock, keeping left of the finishing corner. © Rockfax
FA. K.Wilkinson, S.Jones 27/Aug/1978.
Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Ultimate E1 ticklist , MUMC Ticklist , 101Pembroke Extremes , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Becky's ticklist , Extreme 2018 , Pembroke Goalz , UK Holiday Plans , 3 star Pembroke e1. , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , 33 By 33 , 2021 , Pembs '21 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Tall Oak | 4 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Only on the blunt end so would like to go back one day and lead it. Cool route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Only on the blunt end so would like to go back one day and lead it. Cool route. |
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KCrouchen94 | 26 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Fun route with good holds but very tiring | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fun route with good holds but very tiring |
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Pythonist | 15 May, 2007 |
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βeta: I too was underwhelmed by this one - if it ended about half way between the platform and the top, it'd be perfect. The slight confusion in the line, along with the strenuous but un-difficult nature of the upper section, just takes away from the overall route - i.e. at the ledge I loved this climb, by the top I was swearing at it! | βeta? | |
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βeta: I too was underwhelmed by this one - if it ended about half way between the platform and the top, it'd be perfect. The slight confusion in the line, along with the strenuous but un-difficult nature of the upper section, just takes away from the overall route - i.e. at the ledge I loved this climb, by the top I was swearing at it! |
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Chad123 | 2 May, 2006 |
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βeta: Agree with the above, sustained interest but never particularly hard, lots of stonking gear too, only real problem is route-finding and choice of routes all the way up. I thought 3 star E1, definately more interest than The Arrow for instance..... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Agree with the above, sustained interest but never particularly hard, lots of stonking gear too, only real problem is route-finding and choice of routes all the way up. I thought 3 star E1, definately more interest than The Arrow for instance..... |
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Alun | 7 Dec, 2005 |
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βeta: I was slightly underwhelmed by this 'classic' E1, and I don't feel it has a strong enough line, or a good enough position, to warrant three stars. The climbing is continually interesting right until the end though, which redeems it somewhat. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I was slightly underwhelmed by this 'classic' E1, and I don't feel it has a strong enough line, or a good enough position, to warrant three stars. The climbing is continually interesting right until the end though, which redeems it somewhat. |
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chris wyatt | 2 Nov, 2005 |
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βeta: Watch your ropes getting jammed in a little clamp on the face. Best to clip both ropes lower down to avoid this | βeta? | |
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βeta: Watch your ropes getting jammed in a little clamp on the face. Best to clip both ropes lower down to avoid this |
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Kyuzo | 26 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Totally awesome, beautiful setting, and interesting climbing. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Totally awesome, beautiful setting, and interesting climbing. |
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John Alcock | 1 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Easier if you bear left a little at half height, more pumpy if go head straight up the corner. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Easier if you bear left a little at half height, more pumpy if go head straight up the corner. |
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chris j | 11 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Steady, not hard, unless you're used to gritstone length routes, when you'll pump out just as you get to the jugs... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Steady, not hard, unless you're used to gritstone length routes, when you'll pump out just as you get to the jugs... |
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victim of mathematics | 11 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: Great route indeed. Some of the jugs at the top are so big you can get your whole arm behind them. Great if you're pumped to death. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route indeed. Some of the jugs at the top are so big you can get your whole arm behind them. Great if you're pumped to death. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(St. Govan's Head)