UKC

30m.

Rockfax Description
A hard classic. Start below and 10m left of the big corner of Bludgeon. Climb up to a niche below the crack. Pull up to the mid-height break and then launch yourself into the upper crack (usually past some stuck wires). Climb it to the top. © Rockfax

FA. B.Wyvill, D.Jones 04/May/1981.

Ticklists

Ultimate E3 ticklist, 101Pembroke Extremes

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ged Desforges 8 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Very good route we thought. First half is about V-Diff, but the top half packs it in! Safe as, but some proper moves!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very good route we thought. First half is about V-Diff, but the top half packs it in! Safe as, but some proper moves!
Fiend 27 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Short-lived but serious butch, easy to imagine being "sorted out" by this route. Some hard, unlikely moves, and currently 3 merciful (but unnecessary) in-situ wires. John: "Is it climbed on hand or finger jams?" Fiend: "It's mostly climbed on pain!" later... John (seconding crux and in a rather belligerent voice): "That move was highly improbable..."
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Short-lived but serious butch, easy to imagine being "sorted out" by this route. Some hard, unlikely moves, and currently 3 merciful (but unnecessary) in-situ wires. John: "Is it climbed on hand or finger jams?" Fiend: "It's mostly climbed on pain!" later... John (seconding crux and in a rather belligerent voice): "That move was highly improbable..."

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Route of Interest

Test Case

Grade: E3 5c ***
(St. Govan's Head)
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