Restricted Access
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
There may be a temporary restriction on the route 'Hercules' due to nesting chough - look for on site signs and avoid this route if chough activity around the hole in the brown pillar adjacent to the first half of the route.
Rockfax Description
This modern combination of two half routes has become the classic hard tick of this wall. It gives sustained and technical climbing which bisects the Pleasure Dome traverse. Climb the bulging wall below to a flake and a bit of a rest. Move up the wall above to an undercut then up to Pleasure Dome. Gain a big hold below the thin crack in the headwall (old peg - not crucial). Pull up into the crack with great difficulty and follow it to the top.
StM Original Finish - Move right along Pleasure Dome, then pull through the bulge and climb direct to the finishing corner of Pleasure Dome. © Rockfax
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The Anti Matterhorn
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)