Loading Notifications...
102m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The ubiquitous traverse only this one is excellent (it is in Hard Rock - say no more). Positions throughout are excellent, and there is a lot of great climbing. However, despite the passage of many, there is still some suspect rock.
1) 5b, 40m. Climb Aurora (possible belay on the ledge) and follow its second pitch before striking out left across the airy wall to the Our Father cave stance. It is also possible to belay at the start of the traverse, if moral support is needed.
2) 5a, 15m. Traverse left across the black wall (crumbly, but in balance) to a small ledge on Windhover, just around the arete.
3) 5c, 15m. Traverse left again along the break, and then swing under the roof to join The Flakes and follow it past the tricky section to a hanging belay.
4) 5c, 35m. Traverse left to cross Kellogg, then left again across the bay above Kink. Follow the break leftwards across the wall to Inquisitor, then climb this to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Unknown 1970s. FAA. Chris Jackson, Jim Ballard, C.Moore 1964 1975.

Ticklists

Hard Rock, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Peak Rock/10/White Life, UK Lonely Leads, Definitive *** Peak Lime, Extreme Girdle, Hard Rock 2020, Hard Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
Fellover 19 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Pulled a hold off the crux (sorry all), but don't think it's affected the route or grade too much. I reckon Rockfax pitches are pretty sensible, certainly fine for us, despite comment below...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pulled a hold off the crux (sorry all), but don't think it's affected the route or grade too much. I reckon Rockfax pitches are pretty sensible, certainly fine for us, despite comment below...
James Thacker 13 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A good route, not much loose rock or polish. Some of the pegs are looking a little tired, but most can be backed up by good wires.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A good route, not much loose rock or polish. Some of the pegs are looking a little tired, but most can be backed up by good wires.
Marcus Tierney 2 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I did this route in around 1978 and it was awesome. I still consider this route as one of the best I have done. In all my years since I have not seen another party on it although I do only climb weekdays. A must do route in the grade
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I did this route in around 1978 and it was awesome. I still consider this route as one of the best I have done. In all my years since I have not seen another party on it although I do only climb weekdays. A must do route in the grade
Neil McA 18 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I think E1 5c and 2 stars is about right, there is very little loose rock and only on the 5a pitch, its great in both directions and climbable in just 3 pitches on a single rope which makes it run better.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I think E1 5c and 2 stars is about right, there is very little loose rock and only on the 5a pitch, its great in both directions and climbable in just 3 pitches on a single rope which makes it run better.

Logged Ascents

183 users have logged this
39 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 33
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 33
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

The ArĂȘte

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Tintwistle Knarr)