Rockfax Description
The ubiquitous traverse only this one is excellent (it is in Hard Rock - say no more). Positions throughout are excellent, and there is a lot of great climbing. However, despite the passage of many, there is still some suspect rock.
1) 5b, 40m. Climb Aurora (possible belay on the ledge) and follow its second pitch before striking out left across the airy wall to the Our Father cave stance. It is also possible to belay at the start of the traverse, if moral support is needed.
2) 5a, 15m. Traverse left across the black wall (crumbly, but in balance) to a small ledge on Windhover, just around the arete.
3) 5c, 15m. Traverse left again along the break, and then swing under the roof to join The Flakes and follow it past the tricky section to a hanging belay.
4) 5c, 35m. Traverse left to cross Kellogg, then left again across the bay above Kink. Follow the break leftwards across the wall to Inquisitor, then climb this to the top. © Rockfax
FA. Unknown 1970s. FAA. Chris Jackson, Jim Ballard, C.Moore 1964 1975.
Ticklists
Hard Rock , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Peak Rock/10/White Life , UK Lonely Leads , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Extreme Girdle , Hard Rock 2020 , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Peak Traverses
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fellover | 19 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Pulled a hold off the crux (sorry all), but don't think it's affected the route or grade too much. I reckon Rockfax pitches are pretty sensible, certainly fine for us, despite comment below... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pulled a hold off the crux (sorry all), but don't think it's affected the route or grade too much. I reckon Rockfax pitches are pretty sensible, certainly fine for us, despite comment below... |
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| James Thacker | 13 May, 2005 |
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βeta: A good route, not much loose rock or polish. Some of the pegs are looking a little tired, but most can be backed up by good wires. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A good route, not much loose rock or polish. Some of the pegs are looking a little tired, but most can be backed up by good wires. |
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| Marcus Tierney | 2 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: I did this route in around 1978 and it was awesome. I still consider this route as one of the best I have done. In all my years since I have not seen another party on it although I do only climb weekdays. A must do route in the grade | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I did this route in around 1978 and it was awesome. I still consider this route as one of the best I have done. In all my years since I have not seen another party on it although I do only climb weekdays. A must do route in the grade |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stoney Middleton
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The Arête
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Tintwistle Knarr)