UKC

20m.

Rockfax Description
Vast amounts of character, good climbing and an exciting abseil approach make this a memorable climb. The groove and crack-line in the centre of the wall give steady climbing in impressive surroundings. Good gear. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, S.Garner, Tim Dunsby 11/Aug/1974.

Ticklists

HVS Adventures , West Country Climbs , Orange Spot Swanage , Get out on Rock , SW Climbs - Swanage , Dorset weekender , Ultimate HVS ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Dorset Routes that are worth doing

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User Date Notes
Blake 27 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The ab is fine, make sure you kick out. There's some tat in the fault line on the same level with the Mars/Astrid stance. Grab this and you can very easily hand traverse on rope tension to the stance.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The ab is fine, make sure you kick out. There's some tat in the fault line on the same level with the Mars/Astrid stance. Grab this and you can very easily hand traverse on rope tension to the stance.
RichardN 25 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Given that this route has significant polish in places, it begs the question what do you have to do to avoid polish in swanage!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Given that this route has significant polish in places, it begs the question what do you have to do to avoid polish in swanage!
Revs 27 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Dropped my camera into sea during this route, £500 down the toilet. The beginning was very hard and I fell off unfortunately. Got up finally though!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Dropped my camera into sea during this route, £500 down the toilet. The beginning was very hard and I fell off unfortunately. Got up finally though!
Phil not the power Taylor 21 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Failed to appreciate how overhanging it was and Ab'd down without placing gear. Getting into belay was a nightmare. Partner had to drop 2nd rope so could get a swing on. Great route though. *** for atmosphere.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Failed to appreciate how overhanging it was and Ab'd down without placing gear. Getting into belay was a nightmare. Partner had to drop 2nd rope so could get a swing on. Great route though. *** for atmosphere.
GrahamD 15 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The approach and isolated feeling makes this a real 'adventure' climb. Not the place to hone your abseiling skills.
βeta?
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βeta: The approach and isolated feeling makes this a real 'adventure' climb. Not the place to hone your abseiling skills.
Different Steve 3 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Worth noting that the ab in to the (hanging) belay(at least the one we did) is reasonably tricky. It overhangs about 8ft and therefore requires either some judged swings or gear placement.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Worth noting that the ab in to the (hanging) belay(at least the one we did) is reasonably tricky. It overhangs about 8ft and therefore requires either some judged swings or gear placement.
Different Steve 3 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Worth noting that the ab in to the (hanging) belay(at least the one we did) is reasonably tricky. It overhangs about 8ft and therefore requires either some judged swings or gear placement.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Worth noting that the ab in to the (hanging) belay(at least the one we did) is reasonably tricky. It overhangs about 8ft and therefore requires either some judged swings or gear placement.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 43
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 43
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lightning Wall Direct

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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