Rockfax Description
Vast amounts of character, good climbing and an exciting abseil approach make this a memorable climb. The groove and crack-line in the centre of the wall give steady climbing in impressive surroundings. Good gear. © Rockfax
FA. Richard Crewe, S.Garner, Tim Dunsby 11/Aug/1974.
Ticklists
HVS Adventures , West Country Climbs , Orange Spot Swanage , Get out on Rock , SW Climbs - Swanage , Dorset weekender , Ultimate HVS ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Dorset Routes that are worth doing
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sophie Nunn | 2 Apr |
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βeta: Lighthouse pipe overflow was running for a few mins around 10, didn't appear to hit the cliff but curious if others have seen this? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lighthouse pipe overflow was running for a few mins around 10, didn't appear to hit the cliff but curious if others have seen this? |
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| Blake | 27 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: The ab is fine, make sure you kick out. There's some tat in the fault line on the same level with the Mars/Astrid stance. Grab this and you can very easily hand traverse on rope tension to the stance. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The ab is fine, make sure you kick out. There's some tat in the fault line on the same level with the Mars/Astrid stance. Grab this and you can very easily hand traverse on rope tension to the stance. |
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| RichardN | 25 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Given that this route has significant polish in places, it begs the question what do you have to do to avoid polish in swanage! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Given that this route has significant polish in places, it begs the question what do you have to do to avoid polish in swanage! |
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| Revs | 27 May, 2021 |
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βeta: Dropped my camera into sea during this route, £500 down the toilet. The beginning was very hard and I fell off unfortunately. Got up finally though! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Dropped my camera into sea during this route, £500 down the toilet. The beginning was very hard and I fell off unfortunately. Got up finally though! |
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| Phil not the power Taylor | 21 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: Failed to appreciate how overhanging it was and Ab'd down without placing gear. Getting into belay was a nightmare. Partner had to drop 2nd rope so could get a swing on. Great route though. *** for atmosphere. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Failed to appreciate how overhanging it was and Ab'd down without placing gear. Getting into belay was a nightmare. Partner had to drop 2nd rope so could get a swing on. Great route though. *** for atmosphere. |
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| GrahamD | 15 Dec, 2004 |
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βeta: The approach and isolated feeling makes this a real 'adventure' climb. Not the place to hone your abseiling skills. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The approach and isolated feeling makes this a real 'adventure' climb. Not the place to hone your abseiling skills. |
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| Different Steve | 3 Mar, 2003 |
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βeta: Worth noting that the ab in to the (hanging) belay(at least the one we did) is reasonably tricky. It overhangs about 8ft and therefore requires either some judged swings or gear placement. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Worth noting that the ab in to the (hanging) belay(at least the one we did) is reasonably tricky. It overhangs about 8ft and therefore requires either some judged swings or gear placement. |
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| Different Steve | 3 Mar, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Worth noting that the ab in to the (hanging) belay(at least the one we did) is reasonably tricky. It overhangs about 8ft and therefore requires either some judged swings or gear placement. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Worth noting that the ab in to the (hanging) belay(at least the one we did) is reasonably tricky. It overhangs about 8ft and therefore requires either some judged swings or gear placement. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff
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Behemoth
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)