Rockfax Description
An all-time favourite. Start by the bad step in the ledge. Follow a thin crack to an easing at a small overhang. Move left and up before tackling the appealing, smooth looking wall on the right to the top.
Variation, HVS 5a - move right at the small overhang and then up the wall to rejoin the parent route © Rockfax
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , Orange Spot Swanage , subluminal A to Z .....almost , Get out on Rock , SW Climbs - Swanage , Dorset weekender , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Dorset , Dorset Good Trad D-E2 , Top 25 UKC South West VS/HVS , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Andre Clarke | 2 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Good route well protected. Difficulties lower down with good holds further up | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good route well protected. Difficulties lower down with good holds further up |
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| Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing | 22 Dec, 2005 |
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βeta: Totally overrated and escapable line - I do not understand how anyone could give this 3 stars... | ||
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βeta: Totally overrated and escapable line - I do not understand how anyone could give this 3 stars... |
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| Oli | 1 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Also went too far right then back left but thats probably my poor guidebook reading skills. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Also went too far right then back left but thats probably my poor guidebook reading skills. |
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| Albie | 18 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: It's a bit tricky reading the line from the guide book - assumed it was the continuation of the obvious crack line. But that leads onto the neighbouring E2 climb. So my interesting variation went as far as the big Jug on Grandpas Groove then take the crackline going left. Technically harder but better protected. - I guess I'm not the first to make that mistake. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: It's a bit tricky reading the line from the guide book - assumed it was the continuation of the obvious crack line. But that leads onto the neighbouring E2 climb. So my interesting variation went as far as the big Jug on Grandpas Groove then take the crackline going left. Technically harder but better protected. - I guess I'm not the first to make that mistake. |
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| GrahamD | 9 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: This route is about the only justification for visiting Subluminal. A real gem amongst the choss. | βeta? | |
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βeta: This route is about the only justification for visiting Subluminal. A real gem amongst the choss. |
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| jtree03 | 3 Jan, 2003 |
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βeta: lovely all the way: don't hang about on the first crack, there's plenty of time to savour the route higher up | βeta? | |
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βeta: lovely all the way: don't hang about on the first crack, there's plenty of time to savour the route higher up |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff
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Tensor II
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Guillemot Ledge)