UKC

16 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An adventurous and serious sea-level expedition that should not be underestimated. Good rope management and lead ability at the grade for all members of the party is essential. If opting for the swim across Black Zawn to finish then sea conditions, open water swimming ability and temperature should be very carefully assessed. Begin on ledges to the west of Tilly Whim Caves. Start 2 hours before low tide.
1) 5b, 16m. Traverse along the faultline to a crack then down climb until it is possible to move down leftwards to gain ledges on the left. This section was traditionally accomplished by use of rope tension and pendulums from a peg.
2) 45m. Traverse and scramble along at sea level to a ledge and triangular block.
3) 10m. Climb the short corner above the block to the faultline and go along to a ledge and belay.
4) 4c, 16m. Head down leftwards onto an overhung slab below the faultline then move left to a corner. Climb the corner back up to the faultline and belay on the left. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start west of the Tilly Whim Caves. The Traverse leads towards Subluminal. Pitch 15 involves either swimming across the Zawn (or climbing up [climb(14371)]). The route can be done free at around E1 5b if conditions permit. The original style involves tension traverses and Tyroleans. A committing and exciting outing.

Ticklists

Orange Spot Swanage, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, High Quality Adventure routes, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses, Extreme Girdle

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Route of Interest

Strongbow

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)
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