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16m.

Rockfax Description
Technical face moves based around a very thin crack. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker 16/Apr/1990.

Ticklists

The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, West Country Climbs, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic Portland 7as (2* +), Jurassic 7a, Portland, Portland 7a/+

Feedback

User Date Notes
Andy Fleming 7 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Left arête easier than using the pinches. Initially on the first session I was trying to use the undercut and pinches to go through roof, then today worked alternative beta using a knee bar, bumping up the left arête. This proved More technical but less powerful. Took the crack pretty direct after working out the sequence.
 
Show beta
βeta: Left arête easier than using the pinches. Initially on the first session I was trying to use the undercut and pinches to go through roof, then today worked alternative beta using a knee bar, bumping up the left arête. This proved More technical but less powerful. Took the crack pretty direct after working out the sequence.
BBRC 13 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Roof section at start felt tricky but with the right beta was fine. Top left hand finger pocket is small and sharp and I found a high right foot made the next lungy move much more secure. Lovely route
 
Show beta
βeta: Roof section at start felt tricky but with the right beta was fine. Top left hand finger pocket is small and sharp and I found a high right foot made the next lungy move much more secure. Lovely route
Ben Stokes 4 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: If you get the sequence right there are no 6b moves. However, the easiest sequence was not the first I tried...
 
Show beta
βeta: If you get the sequence right there are no 6b moves. However, the easiest sequence was not the first I tried...
daimon 14 Jan, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: 7B. I felt 3 english 6b moves which to me comes to about a good 7b. I liked it, but at a grade of 7b. Flashed on top rope.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 7B. I felt 3 english 6b moves which to me comes to about a good 7b. I liked it, but at a grade of 7b. Flashed on top rope.

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 110
Votes cast 87
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Superfly Guy

Grade: 7a ***
(Coastguard North)