The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.
Dates: 21 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.
Rockfax Description
A meaty undertaking that incorporates a good deal of varied and testing climbing. Start about a third of the way up the approach path to The Saddle.
1) 4a, 20m. Climb the corner/groove (a little mossy and some care with the rock needed at the start) that passes to the left of a mammoth overhang to eventually reach a tree belay under the thought-provoking chimney climbed on the second pitch.
2) 4a, 15m. Ascend the well-proportioned chimney that cuts the face and leads directly to the summit of the buttress. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
1) 4a/b. Climb the slabby corner, passing a hanging flake, to a tree and flake belay.
2) 4a. Awkwardly climb the wide chimney to the top. They don’t teach you this on climbing walls...
2020 Vision , Dewerstone Sub-HVS Multipitch Time Trial
User | Date | Notes | ||
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pweh | 1 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Cleaned first pitch of moss and vines, tidied up the ledge above the tree, might be a better belay option now. 1.5.23 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Cleaned first pitch of moss and vines, tidied up the ledge above the tree, might be a better belay option now. 1.5.23 |
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nickdonohue | 26 Mar, 2022 |
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βeta: Excellent route | βeta? | |
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βeta: Excellent route |
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wiwwim | 25 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Still eggs in Jackdaw nest near chockstone, although no jackdaws around. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Still eggs in Jackdaw nest near chockstone, although no jackdaws around. |
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chudders1 | 20 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Please note -active kestrel nest on first belay . Please avoid | βeta? | |
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βeta: Please note -active kestrel nest on first belay . Please avoid |
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ben_st | 31 Dec, 2019 |
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βeta: The chockstone on p2 is loose | βeta? | |
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βeta: The chockstone on p2 is loose |
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Grade: HS 4b ***
(The Dewerstone)