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2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A truly wonderful climb - they don't come much better. The climbing is intimidating but straightforward and very well-protected. Start directly beneath the dominating corner.
1) 4b, 28m. Climb the short polished wall to the base of the corner, which is followed all the way to the capping overlap. Traverse rightwards to the arete and a large block-belay.
2) 4b, 20m. Climb up and then rightwards to a ledge. Move right to below a well defined corner (possible belay). Climb the fine corner to the top, the technical crux of the route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Holds and protection abound. Start below the obvious large corner.
1) 4b. Climb the cracked wall to the start of the corner. Climb this, by a variety of techniques, until the overhangs become oppressive. Move out, onto the wall, using large holds, and climb up to an airy belay on the arĂȘte. Or, finish directly up the corner. Harder. 2) 4b. Climb a short wall to a ramp. Move right, across this ramp, and finish up the hanging corner above, by layback and finger jams. It is possible to climb the slab, right of the corner; harder, and worrying to lead.

FA. C.Simpson 1949.

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Kernow, West Country Climbs, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK., Tom Randall's Classic Hand cracks, Rockfax West Country top 50, UK Classic Corners, South West Climbs for a Northerner, HS Climbs to do in Summer 2014, Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe, CUMC Ticklist, WideBoyz Crack School, South West VDiff-HVS, 2016 Targets, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK, University of Exeter must tick's, Pre-MIA Wishlist, Moving to Devon, Bristol Crack School, Ultimate HS ticklist, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), 2020 Trips, Dewerstone Sub-HVS Multipitch Time Trial

Feedback

User Date Notes
georgechapman 4 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Wagtail gone, checked via Leviathon and confirmed by local who has removed the sign.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wagtail gone, checked via Leviathon and confirmed by local who has removed the sign.
Rod_Vortex 2 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Wagtail nesting on p1.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wagtail nesting on p1.
Dave Mahon 2 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Steep but lots of gear + holds. Superb for the grade
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Steep but lots of gear + holds. Superb for the grade
Dale Berry 2 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Superb. The first pitch is as good as it gets and the finnish is a fitting climax, just a shame about the scrappy section above the belay (which is in an excelent position). At the pitch though take a look at what the top of the obvious block is attached to the rest of the rock by...should this worry you there are excelent large nut and hex placements in the cracks to the right.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb. The first pitch is as good as it gets and the finnish is a fitting climax, just a shame about the scrappy section above the belay (which is in an excelent position). At the pitch though take a look at what the top of the obvious block is attached to the rest of the rock by...should this worry you there are excelent large nut and hex placements in the cracks to the right.

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Votes cast 273
High 4c
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High 4b
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Votes cast 254
Votes cast 272
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
DWS
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Devil's Slide

Grade: HS 4a ***
(Lundy)