Perhaps the best of the harder routes at the Dewerstone. It features two sustained crack-pitches, each hard to fault. Start as for Central Groove. 1) 5b, 22m. Climb up the initial wall of Central Groove and pull out rightwards onto a hanging slab. Climb the slab and layback around the right end of the overhang. Immediately pull rightwards onto a good large spike, then climb the steep crack above with difficulty to a large bollard-belay.2) 5a, 26m. Above the bollard is a thin crack. Take this all the way to a ledge beneath a clean-cut corner on Climbers' Club Ordinary. Climb the corner to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Perhaps the best of the harder routes at The Dewerstone. Three brilliant crack pitches, each hard to fault.
1) 5b. Climb Fruitflancase to just beyond the layback move around the right side of the overhang. Pull right on to a good spike and climb the crack above with difficulty to a large bollard belay.
2) 5a. Above the bollard is a thin crack. Take this all the way to a ledge beneath a clean-cut corner.
3) 4b. Climb the corner to the top.
FA. M.Rabley 1962. FFA L. Benstead & D. Morrod 1969.
Kernow, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Extreme 2018, The E1 UK Roadtrip, The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200., Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents