UKC

48m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Perhaps the best of the harder routes at the Dewerstone. It features two sustained crack pitches, each hard to fault. Start as for Central Groove.
1) 5b, 22m. Climb up the initial wall of Central Groove and pull out rightwards onto a hanging slab. Climb the slab and layback around the right end of the overhang. Immediately pull rightwards onto a good large spike, then climb the steep crack above with difficulty to a large bollard belay.
2) 5a, 26m. Above the bollard is a thin crack. Take this all the way to a ledge beneath a clean-cut corner on Climbers' Club Ordinary. Climb the corner to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Perhaps the best of the harder routes at The Dewerstone. Three brilliant crack pitches, each hard to fault.
1) 5b. Climb Fruitflancase to just beyond the layback move around the right side of the overhang. Pull right on to a good spike and climb the crack above with difficulty to a large bollard belay.
2) 5a. Above the bollard is a thin crack. Take this all the way to a ledge beneath a clean-cut corner (optional belay), Climb the corner as for Climbers Club to the top (4b).

FA. M.Rabley 1962. FFA L. Benstead & D. Morrod 1969.

Ticklists

Kernow , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Extreme 2018 , The E1 UK Roadtrip , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4 , Dartmoor UKC *** Trad , Definitive *** Dartmoor Trad , Routes for MCI

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User Date Notes
rhysvicevans 23 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: There is a small bird's nest in the crack on the slab. Might be best to avoid disturbing for now.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is a small bird's nest in the crack on the slab. Might be best to avoid disturbing for now.

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Spider

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Chudleigh Rocks - South Face)

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