UKC

2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A hidden classic that weaves its way up the alternating slabs and overhangs of the front face. Start by scrambling around the base of the buttress to a tree on the right.
1) 5a, 17m. Move up to the right end of the overhangs and climb a short corner (not the square-cut longer corner to the right). Pull out left after 3m and move across the slab to a peg and nut belay.
2) 5a, 16m. Climb up behind the belay and make a thin move rightwards onto another slab before moving up to the next overhang. Restricted moves left gain the arete and much easier climbing leading to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Tom Patey’s legacy. A very fine route. Fair for its grade, though with a bold feel in places.
The first pitch dries slowly after rain; the second memorable pitch can be gained by alternative starts. The first pitch is worthwhile though.
Start on the right-hand side of the slab, below a hanging corner.
1) 5a. Climb the slab to the corner. Climb the corner with difficulty, until it is
possible to step left, onto a slab. Traverse across this to a peg, Rock and Friend belay. 2) 5a. Climb the short wall, via a crack and groove, and teeter onto the upper slab. Move delicately up, and right, to reach the next overhang, via a thin crack (Rocks/small Friends). Traverse leftwards, to the edge of the slab, and use a crack to surmount the overhang, to reach slabs. Continue to belays.
DIRECT START 4C
4c. Climb the steep slab direct, up to the corner of the first pitch.

FA. T.Patey 1959.

Ticklists

Kernow, West Country Climbs, South West VDiff-HVS, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200.

Feedback

User Date Notes
S Andrew 12 Oct Show βeta
βeta: Block at the top of the pillar above P1 belay is unsound. Moves enough for nuts to pull through. Be careful placing a runner to protect the move onto the slab.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Block at the top of the pillar above P1 belay is unsound. Moves enough for nuts to pull through. Be careful placing a runner to protect the move onto the slab.
Phil79 26 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Peg at the belay no longer in-situ. Alternative gear available.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Peg at the belay no longer in-situ. Alternative gear available.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 48
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 53
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Vandal and Ann

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Haytor)
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