A hidden classic that weaves its way up the alternating slabs and overhangs of the front face. Care with rope management is required on pitch 2 as it involves a zigzag traverse. Start by scrambling around the base of the buttress to a tree on the right.
1) 5a, 17m. Move up to the right end of the overhangs and climb a short corner (not the longer square-cut corner to the right). Pull out left after 3m and move across the slab to a peg and nut belay.
2) 5a, 16m. Climb up behind the belay and make a thin move rightwards onto another slab before moving up to the next overhang. Restricted moves left gain the arete, from where much easier climbing gains the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Tom Patey’s legacy. A very fine route. Fair for its grade, though with a bold feel in places.
The first pitch dries slowly after rain; the second memorable pitch can be gained by alternative starts. The first pitch is worthwhile though.
Start on the right-hand side of the slab, below a hanging corner.
1) 5a. Climb the slab to the corner. Climb the corner with difficulty, until it is
possible to step left, onto a slab. Traverse across this to a peg, Rock and Friend belay. 2) 5a. Climb the short wall, via a crack and groove, and teeter onto the upper slab. Move delicately up, and right, to reach the next overhang, via a thin crack (Rocks/small Friends). Traverse leftwards, to the edge of the slab, and use a crack to surmount the overhang, to reach slabs. Continue to belays.
DIRECT START 4C
4c. Climb the steep slab direct, up to the corner of the first pitch.
FA. T.Patey 1959.
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