Access Banned
Easy access but tidal. Lots of conservation interest including nesting birds and a very rare flower - the South Stack Spathulate Fleawort - a nationally rare endemic species that grows along the cliff edges. No gardening or placing of any additional belay stakes allowed anywhere on this coastline.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 15 September
Reason: Nesting Birds
Due to nesting birds, the ban for this area has been extended. Please visit NRW page for more information Natural Resources Wales / Exclusion zone to prevent damage at protected site
Rockfax Description
A classic of The Range, this lip traverse of a large cave is wild. It is best found by making you way onto the sub-island as for The Snake so you can see where it is to arrange an abseil. From small ledges, above high water, head up to the roof and arrange protection before setting off across the lip of the cave via an exciting sequence. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Abseil to a ledge on the left side of the cave and belay. An easy slab lead to a layback flake. Climb the flake that lead to the start of the ramp. Climb the ramp from the back left of the cave across the roof to the lip. Easy ground leads to the top. Sensational. A Gogarth classic of its genre.
George Smith.
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Outside the asylum
Grade: E5 6a ***
(Gogarth South Stack)