UKC

Access Banned

Easy access  but tidal. Lots of conservation interest including nesting  birds and a very rare flower - the South Stack Spathulate Fleawort - a nationally rare endemic species that grows along the cliff edges. No gardening or placing of any additional belay stakes allowed anywhere on this coastline.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 15 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

Due to nesting birds, the ban for this area has been extended. Please visit NRW page for more information Natural Resources Wales / Exclusion zone to prevent damage at protected site

Rockfax Description
A fantastic adventure through some wild territory. Make an intimidating hand traverse down and right, passing some spikes, to below an overhung slab. Continue diagonally right along a vague crack to a gain a ledge in the cave. Drop down from a jug into the void and bridge across to the opposite wall - take care not to get stuck between the walls! Climb left and up to much needed protection. Continue through the blowhole exit. © Rockfax

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 2
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Followed
Alt Leads
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
A Dream of White Horses

Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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