UKC

Restricted Access

Ementhal Zawn - birds have Fledged so access can be returned for 2023. 

from 15/06/2023 to 31/07/2023

Easy access  but tidal. Lots of conservation interest including nesting  birds and a very rare flower - the South Stack Spathulate Fleawort - a nationally rare endemic species that grows along the cliff edges. No gardening or placing of any additional belay stakes allowed anywhere on this coastline.

Refer to current guide book (Gogarth South by Ground Up) for indivdual seasonal route access info - however these have been slightly amended for 2018. The dates for each section are different due to the different bird species present :-

Seasonal restrictions apply to the following cliffs and routes :

Botox Zawn - restriction for "Salute of the Tengu" to "RAF Brown Slab" Feb 1st to June 30th. 

One Stack Zawn - Restriction amended and reduced to include "Angel of the West" only (nest is in the cave to the right. Feb 1st to June 30th.

Anvil Porus Area - as in guidebook, All routes restricted, Feb 1st to July 31st (Razorbill Colony) 

Housetrap Zawn - as in guidebook, the whole zawn is restricted due to nesting Choughs Feb 1st to June 30th.

Pooh Bay - as in guidebook - Nesting Choughs, Feb 1st to June 30th.

Dichotomous Wall- as in guidebook, nesting Choughs Feb 1st to June 30th. 

The Fortress (Dinas) - as in guidebook  2 pairs of Choughs nesting here Feb 1st to June 30th. 

31m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A Dream of White Horses for The Range. A stunning outing with space-walking moves across the lip of a roof. Best done at high tide. Start at a ledge that overlooks the ramp.
1) 4c, 20m. Traverse out across the abyss to a groove. Go around the rib to gain a slab leading down to a large corner - possible belay. Move around a prominent spike and down to a corner and traverse out to a good belay below a roof.
1a) Low Tide Start, VS 4c, 20m. It is possible to bypass the tricky traverse on P1 at low tide.
2) 4b, 20m. Move up to the roof and traverse left to where a wild step up gains a slab. Continue onwards until another big step can be made onto a pink-coloured ramp. Follow the ramp up and left to a belay on a rib just below the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Rab 'Pocket a Prize' Competition: Libby's Lines, Lesser-Known North Wales Classics , The Range - Recommended By Climber Magazine , 3 Star - North Wales HS - HVS

Feedback

User Date Notes
paulinepavlova 9 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: I believe the Ground Up Gogarth South guidebook topo misses out the first pitch? I was confused as it shows route immediately going up and then descending yet the description says to traverse across sea-level. Think just follow the description, and go pretty much horizontal for first pitch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I believe the Ground Up Gogarth South guidebook topo misses out the first pitch? I was confused as it shows route immediately going up and then descending yet the description says to traverse across sea-level. Think just follow the description, and go pretty much horizontal for first pitch.
Butty 3 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Superb route.... First pitch is the crux, I'd probably solo it again as gear wont stop you going in the drink. Be careful topping out as the rock is loose, placed 6 pieces of gear for anchor as dubious rock. Overall fantastic day and would repeat in a heartbeat
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb route.... First pitch is the crux, I'd probably solo it again as gear wont stop you going in the drink. Be careful topping out as the rock is loose, placed 6 pieces of gear for anchor as dubious rock. Overall fantastic day and would repeat in a heartbeat

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 24
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
DWS
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Britomartis

Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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