UKC

Restricted Access

Easy access  but tidal. Lots of conservation interest including nesting  birds and a very rare flower - the South Stack Spathulate Fleawort - a nationally rare endemic species that grows along the cliff edges. No gardening or placing of any additional belay stakes allowed anywhere on this coastline.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Refer to current guide book (Gogarth South by Ground Up) for individual seasonal route access info - however these have been slightly amended since 2018. The dates for each section are different due to the different bird species present :-

Seasonal restrictions apply to the following cliffs and routes :

Botox Zawn - restriction for "Salute of the Tengu" to "RAF Brown Slab" Feb 1st to June 30th. 

One Stack Zawn - Restriction amended and reduced to include "Angel of the West" only (nest is in the cave to the right. Feb 1st to June 30th.

Anvil Porus Area - as in guidebook, All routes restricted, Feb 1st to July 31st (Razorbill Colony) 

Ementhal Zawn - as in guidebook, all routes restricted, Feb 1st to July 31st

Housetrap Zawn - as in guidebook, the whole zawn is restricted due to nesting Choughs Feb 1st to June 30th.

Pooh Bay - as in guidebook - Nesting Choughs, Feb 1st to June 30th.

Dichotomous Wall- as in guidebook, nesting Choughs Feb 1st to June 30th. 

The Fortress (Dinas) - as in guidebook  2 pairs of Choughs nesting here Feb 1st to June 30th. 

15m.

Rockfax Description
The corner is climbed with interest. At two thirds height, move out left onto the arete. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
5m L of The Mover

Ticklists

The Range - Recommended By Climber Magazine

Feedback

User Date Notes
Fruit 27 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: If you follow the logical line and break left onto the arĂȘte at roughly half height the route is more like a S/HS 4a. Enjoyable
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If you follow the logical line and break left onto the arĂȘte at roughly half height the route is more like a S/HS 4a. Enjoyable

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Style of Ascent
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Route of Interest
Fisherman's Friend

Grade: HS 4a ***
(Porth Dafarch)

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