Rockfax Description
Great rock, exhilarating moves and breath-taking exposure. Gain the right-hand end of the large terrace halfway up North Gully either by a scramble or by North Buttress. Belay just right of a large block.
1) 4c, 25m. Climb up right and go round the arete on the right. Climb a slab to a small ledge then follow the slab above. Continue up the curving groove to a large ledge.
2) 4b, 40m. Head right onto the nose and enjoy the air beneath your feet. Climb straight up to easier ground leading to the top. © Rockfax
Ticklists
The 100 Best UK VS routes? , North Wales Rock Graded List , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , CUMC First Ascents , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , Adventure ticklist 2018 , UK Holiday Plans , Pre-MIA Wishlist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Climbs I want do next , Wales Multipitch , Gwen Moffat: Space Below My Feet , 2024 , RCIAIS CCH100 , TLMC Highlights , Eyes to the Hills , North Wales Rock - Wired 2025
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tom Redwood | 26 Aug |
Show βeta
βeta: The 2013 Rockfax North Wales Climbs and app (currently) is wrong for the first pitch. The description is better but also a bit woolly. The route traverses lower and further right than the topo, heading diagonally up and right, across some dodgy sounding blocks to get around the arete before you can stand up and get into the meat of the route which is pretty engaging at VS. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The 2013 Rockfax North Wales Climbs and app (currently) is wrong for the first pitch. The description is better but also a bit woolly. The route traverses lower and further right than the topo, heading diagonally up and right, across some dodgy sounding blocks to get around the arete before you can stand up and get into the meat of the route which is pretty engaging at VS. |
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| TobyA | 15 Aug |
Show βeta
βeta: The line marked on the Rockfax app is wrong. The description gives a better idea. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The line marked on the Rockfax app is wrong. The description gives a better idea. |
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| Dom Mackenzie | 19 Sep, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: BMG summer assessment, exped. Amazing | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: BMG summer assessment, exped. Amazing |
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| Butty | 3 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great route with good exposure. Made the mistake of dropping down and going around to the right instead of going straight up from the obvious belay niche. Came back down and then it made sense. The 2nd pitch is short with a couple of nice moves. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Great route with good exposure. Made the mistake of dropping down and going around to the right instead of going straight up from the obvious belay niche. Came back down and then it made sense. The 2nd pitch is short with a couple of nice moves. |
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| Johnathan | 31 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Heading around the arete one of the blocks in the groove was very loose. I felt as though I nearly pulled it off the mountain. On a route this popular it's probably not news (or maybe I was in the wrong place...) but take care! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Heading around the arete one of the blocks in the groove was very loose. I felt as though I nearly pulled it off the mountain. On a route this popular it's probably not news (or maybe I was in the wrong place...) but take care! |
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| Francis Hardy | 5 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Guide book description is vague and pretty sure the tooi is wrong. From looking back down the route I'm faiy certain the slabs mentioned in the description are right round the main arete and not visible from the belay stance. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Guide book description is vague and pretty sure the tooi is wrong. From looking back down the route I'm faiy certain the slabs mentioned in the description are right round the main arete and not visible from the belay stance. |
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| TommoRowe | 31 May, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: It was confusing to find, but this is because we didn\'t finish North Buttress at the right pitch. A good way to know you\'re at the start is to make sure you\'re level with the 5th pitch of Grooved Arete. From here the Rockfax descritpion is bang on and the route is well worth doing. We found the first pitch more enjoyable and exposed. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: It was confusing to find, but this is because we didn't finish North Buttress at the right pitch. A good way to know you're at the start is to make sure you're level with the 5th pitch of Grooved Arete. From here the Rockfax descritpion is bang on and the route is well worth doing. We found the first pitch more enjoyable and exposed. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Tryfan
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Flake Crack
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Clogwyn y Tarw (The Gribin Facet))