UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

38m.

Rockfax Description
This route is situated high on the side of Twll Mawr. It used to be approached by walking across to the base until a colossal rockfall left the start way up the cliff! The route was then gained from a tunnel that starts from the base of the second set of ladders down from the Khyber Pass to overlook Twll Mawr. This also collapsed recently so now an abseil approach is required, to a belay of unknown quality in the tunnel mouth. If you get there the route follows a fine crack-line up a slab, but the dubious history and approach means that the route is probably best avoided. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
aprroach: go down the twin ladders by 'XXXposure' Go though tunnel next door. The VERY loose crack leads straight to the top. (new slate guide says two pitch hvs- this is incorrect).
Take double cams with a big blue dmmm size.

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Route of Interest
The Corner

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy))

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