Rockfax Description
A narrow and reasonably sound dolerite pillar between Scorpion and Bonza Crack gives a long and excellent and well-bolted sport route with good positions and interesting climbing. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A narrow and reasonably sound dolerite pillar running about half way up the N Wall of Twll Mawr between Scorpion and Bonza Crack gives an excellent and well-bolted sport route with good positions and interesting climbing.

Enter Twll Mawr via the tunnel and head diagonally up the scree slope to a flat area below the pillar just below where the scree rears up into jumbled blocks.

Scramble to the pillar base and climb its R rib to ledges, initially using the groove to the R. After this mediocre start a brilliant crux sequence leads up then L on layaways, crimps, occasional finger jugs and small footholds to an exposed resting position. Continue up the middle section more easily but still with interest then tackle the headwall with increased difficulty and excellent climbing to the top of the pillar (several possible lines most needing some faith in what will turn up). An excellent addition to the the options available in Twll Mawr. A 60 m rope just gets you down but be careful. A 70 does it comfortably.

H. Walmsley, I. Lloyd-Jones 25/Aug/2016.

Ticklists

Twll Mawr Big Wall 1000 Metre Challenge! , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 6c & 6c+

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