UKC

Restricted Access

All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.

Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.

 

29m.

Rockfax Description
Exposed and committing climbing up the wall's right-hand arete. Start just to the left of the arete. Make a tricky series of moves over the low overhang and then climb rightwards up the wall to meet the upper arete. Make committing moves up the arete to an easier finish. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker 13/Aug/1989.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Birds , Portland scheming

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rin C 7 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A great route and not too hard to on-sight. The start is entertaining and quite powerful, the the next half is fairly easy (3 good rests) and the arete is sheer quality. Loved it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A great route and not too hard to on-sight. The start is entertaining and quite powerful, the the next half is fairly easy (3 good rests) and the arete is sheer quality. Loved it.
John Alcock 19 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A stick clip is nice for the first bolt. I broke a big jug off the lower arete and then pathetically wimped out of the crux.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A stick clip is nice for the first bolt. I broke a big jug off the lower arete and then pathetically wimped out of the crux.

Logged Ascents

120 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wallsend South

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 28 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Judge Jeffreys

Grade: 6c ***
(Battleship Edge)

Loading Notifications...