UKC

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All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.

Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.

 

29m.

Rockfax Description
A splendid pitch that features a forceful finger-crack. Start in an overhung sentry-box. Move up and right to clear the overhang and gain the wall above. Climb the wall rightwards on good finger-holds to the base of a thin crack in the upper wall. The fine, thin crack is climbed with difficulty to a short headwall. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 11/Jul/1989.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below , Portland , West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+ , Portland Projects 6c-7a+ , Portland scheming

Feedback

User Date Notes
dinodinosaur 27 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Feels like an E4 on bolts, wicked
βeta?
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βeta: Feels like an E4 on bolts, wicked
Luke.Nisbet 19 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Amazing climb much more like a boulder than \"The Jewel of the Isle\" with some good moves on it
Show beta
βeta: Amazing climb much more like a boulder than "The Jewel of the Isle" with some good moves on it
Tituscrags 19 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: This route was excellent, crack climb crux was awesome
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βeta: This route was excellent, crack climb crux was awesome
earthkeptwarm 17 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Kinda good line but it's run out, a bit of rock fell off at the start which is sketch and I would recommend clipsticking... It's really all about the crack which requires some work to read.
βeta?
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βeta: Kinda good line but it's run out, a bit of rock fell off at the start which is sketch and I would recommend clipsticking... It's really all about the crack which requires some work to read.
tomrainbow 7 May, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: The climbing may only be 6c but the runout is definitely 6c+. Felt E4 6a in old money. The climbing is good but a bit disjointed, the lower half being much easier.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The climbing may only be 6c but the runout is definitely 6c+. Felt E4 6a in old money. The climbing is good but a bit disjointed, the lower half being much easier.

Logged Ascents

214 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wallsend South

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Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 36
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Turned to Stone

Grade: 6c+ ***
(Blacknor South)

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