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All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.

Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.



Rockfax Description
A powerful pull through the initial overhang is followed by far more pleasant climbing above. Start just to the left of an overhung sentry-box. Heave over the low overhang and ascend the wall above to twin corners in the upper wall. Finish via the left corner, turning the final overhang on the left. © Rockfax

FA. Brian Tilley. Brian?s finest new route. 13/Jul/1989.


West Country Climbs , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , Portland scheming


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High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Judge Jeffreys

Grade: 6c ***
(Battleship Edge)

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