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28m.

Rockfax Description
The routes's difficulties are split by the left-leaning, open corner in the middle of the bulging section of the upper wall. Start below the blank wall directly below the corner. Climb the fingery wall and flake to below the midway corner. Inch up to easier ground in the corner and climb this to more tricky climbing at its end, where the overhang and headwall provide a spectacular finale. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 05/Jul/1989

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Cass31 16 Sep, 2019 Lead RP Moist!!
with Trisha Murphy
Moist!!
with Trisha Murphy
littleluke 24 Aug, 2019 Lead RP
Matti Puckridge 24 Aug, 2019 Lead RP Fantastic route. The crux sequence rivals other top 50s.
Fantastic route. The crux sequence rivals other top 50s.
johnhan310 13 Jul, 2019 Lead RP Refined the beta on the crux and got it first rp after trying it a few weeks ago.. classy movement into and out of the corner
Refined the beta on the crux and got it first rp after trying it a few weeks ago.. classy movement into and out of the corner
Alex N-R 23 Jun, 2019 Lead O/S
with Tomar
with Tomar
Hidden 21 Jun, 2019 Lead RP
Hidden 1 Jun, 2019 Lead dog
Depaulo 1 Jun, 2019 Lead β Nice route. No desperate moves, just make the most of the rests.
Nice route. No desperate moves, just make the most of the rests.
Rockmonkey1977 27 May, 2019 Lead RP Some very cool sequences on this. One crux off the floor, another through the groove and then the last up the crack/flake. Really cool route, conditions were pretty decent today and definitely better than Saturday. I feel like Portland 7b’s are starting to fall a bit quicker but I’ll probably get my ass kicked on the next one... One go on Sat, a very good burn whilst placing the qd’s today but let down by a foot pop. Sent next go.
Some very cool sequences on this. One crux off the floor, another through the groove and then the last up the crack/flake. Really cool route, conditions were pretty decent today and definitely better than Saturday. I feel like Portland 7b’s are starting to fall a bit quicker but I’ll probably get my ass kicked on the next one... One go on Sat, a very good burn whilst placing the qd’s today but let down by a foot pop. Sent next go.
Rockmonkey1977 25 May, 2019 Lead dog Climbed on someone else’s qd’s. Seemed tricky but possible. One to come back for in cooler temps.
Climbed on someone else’s qd’s. Seemed tricky but possible. One to come back for in cooler temps.
Ellis Bird 10 May, 2019 Lead RP As close to an insight you can get! Fell off trying to find the greasy crimps at the first bolt, doh.
As close to an insight you can get! Fell off trying to find the greasy crimps at the first bolt, doh.
john lynch 5 May, 2019 Lead O/S
with Harriet, Bethan May Davies, John Hanley
with Harriet, Bethan May Davies, John Hanley
Bethan May Davies 5 May, 2019 Lead O/S
blaza1 7 Oct, 2018 Lead RP Slipped off on the onsight, nice route
with lizzabelle, liam jones
Slipped off on the onsight, nice route
with lizzabelle, liam jones
S.Kew 22 Aug, 2018 Lead RP
dbrooks 28 Jul, 2018 Lead RP 1st RP attempt, just before it started raining. Mega route!
with abrooks, Elliot
1st RP attempt, just before it started raining. Mega route!
with abrooks, Elliot
ThomasB 2 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
JackMac 13 Mar, 2017 Lead RP First go today. Apart from the seepage the conditions were very good. Also feel stronger/fitter than last year - perhaps training has worked!
First go today. Apart from the seepage the conditions were very good. Also feel stronger/fitter than last year - perhaps training has worked!
Hayley loves climbing 13 Mar, 2017 2nd dog
with JackMac
with JackMac
gem_stone12 14 Sep, 2016 TR
nimajneb 14 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
JackMac 14 Aug, 2016 Lead dog In two cleans parts after fluffing a hand swap. I really do suck at redpointing... Started the route to the right of the first bold this time which felt easier. On the crux, used the left hand crimp, right foot hold and high right hand finger pocket.
with Hayley, lawsy_boy1
In two cleans parts after fluffing a hand swap. I really do suck at redpointing... Started the route to the right of the first bold this time which felt easier. On the crux, used the left hand crimp, right foot hold and high right hand finger pocket.
with Hayley, lawsy_boy1
JackMac 7 Aug, 2016 Lead dog Pleased with my onsight attempt - managed to boulder through the first section but slipped off very greasy holds after the routes trends left. Also couldn't physically get past the side pull flake near to top due to grease. In the afternoon, conditions improved drastically but I couldn't repeat the start! Great route.
with Tomar
Pleased with my onsight attempt - managed to boulder through the first section but slipped off very greasy holds after the routes trends left. Also couldn't physically get past the side pull flake near to top due to grease. In the afternoon, conditions improved drastically but I couldn't repeat the start! Great route.
with Tomar
Hidden 23 Jul, 2016 Lead RP
Hidden ? May, 2016 -
Ally Smith 25 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Elbows out crimping at the start and super fun laybacking on the headwall
Elbows out crimping at the start and super fun laybacking on the headwall
Hidden 18 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
NewHam ? Aug, 2014 Lead RP
Ian Bell 30 Jun, 2013 TR dog 2 goes on TR, bloody hard!
2 goes on TR, bloody hard!
John Mcshea 23 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 28 May, 2012 Lead RP 2nd go. Really good. Moving left and up into the corner was the crux for me.
with AlexD
2nd go. Really good. Moving left and up into the corner was the crux for me.
with AlexD
dan gibson 24 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
with anna barnes
with anna barnes
Hidden 3 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
philhilo 14 May, 2011 TR dog Soooo hard. Never been on a 7b. Every style of climbing so excellent route, 3* for sure. Dogged to death!
with Misha
Soooo hard. Never been on a 7b. Every style of climbing so excellent route, 3* for sure. Dogged to death!
with Misha
Misha u 14 May, 2011 Lead dog Took a while to figure out the moves on the first go. Almost got it on the second go but blew it on the moves to get established in the crux due to using an incorrect sequence. Used Phil's sequence after that (press out with the right hand and use a pocket) and it worked fine. Simply didn't have enough steam left on the third go. Great route with varied moves. Getting to the second clip is the hardest bit!
Took a while to figure out the moves on the first go. Almost got it on the second go but blew it on the moves to get established in the crux due to using an incorrect sequence. Used Phil's sequence after that (press out with the right hand and use a pocket) and it worked fine. Simply didn't have enough steam left on the third go. Great route with varied moves. Getting to the second clip is the hardest bit!
Hidden 25 Sep, 2010 Lead β
marcpontin ? Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with huw
with huw
Marti999 u 5 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard 11 May, 2009 -
with Andy Schofield
with Andy Schofield
Martin Krasnansky 27 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
angusaussie ? Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with Martin Krasnansky
with Martin Krasnansky
La Mont ??, 2009 -
Hidden ??, 2009 Lead dog
feilx 14 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2004 -
Hidden ??, 2001 -
Steve Crowe 15 Mar, 1998 Lead O/S
with karin
with karin
Hidden ??, 1996 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 2 Jun, 1995 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
25 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Ariane V

Grade: 7b ***
(Wallsend South)