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All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.

Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.

 

18m.

Rockfax Description
A good pitch up some layback flakes. © Rockfax

FA. Ben Stokes Aug/2003.

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User Date Notes
Ben Stokes 29 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: FA was 20.6.03
βeta?
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βeta: FA was 20.6.03
Climber_Bill 24 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Fair enough! I was probably having a bad time for some reason, such as weak, old, scared etc.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fair enough! I was probably having a bad time for some reason, such as weak, old, scared etc.
steve taylor 20 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I fell off lots of times and damaged nothing but my ego. I've no recollection of being scared about hitting ledges, and one of my falls was from the crux.
βeta?
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βeta: I fell off lots of times and damaged nothing but my ego. I've no recollection of being scared about hitting ledges, and one of my falls was from the crux.
Ben Stokes 20 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: That's funny, I fell off the route before the first ascent and I didn't hit the ledge. Since I only fell off once I considered that place to be the crux. However, it was damp so I guess it depends were you think the crux is. By the way I didn't bolt the route so I'm not being defensive - I'm just surprised.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: That's funny, I fell off the route before the first ascent and I didn't hit the ledge. Since I only fell off once I considered that place to be the crux. However, it was damp so I guess it depends were you think the crux is. By the way I didn't bolt the route so I'm not being defensive - I'm just surprised.
Climber_Bill 20 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Badly bolted! Coming off the crux would probably put you on the big ledge below with a good chance of injury. I'm not bothered about taking big falls, but this is supposed to be a sport route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Badly bolted! Coming off the crux would probably put you on the big ledge below with a good chance of injury. I'm not bothered about taking big falls, but this is supposed to be a sport route.
Ben Stokes 14 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Best wait to late afternoon to climb this pitch as the flakes can be a little damp.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Best wait to late afternoon to climb this pitch as the flakes can be a little damp.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wallsend South

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
No Man is an Island

Grade: 6c ***
(Battleship Back Cliff)

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