UKC

Restricted Access

All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.

Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.

 

22m.

Rockfax Description
Good climbing up the wall and groove. © Rockfax

FA. Neal Heanes Aug/2003.

Ticklists

3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , Portland 7a/+ , Portland Projects 6c-7a+

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dan Browne 18 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Rock eroded from bolts but all seemed sound, make your own mind up on this. Some loose rock at the start so clipstick the second bolt. Surface of the rock higher up is blowing and easily broken from smears etc (3mm thick flakes sort of thing) so belayer beware
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rock eroded from bolts but all seemed sound, make your own mind up on this. Some loose rock at the start so clipstick the second bolt. Surface of the rock higher up is blowing and easily broken from smears etc (3mm thick flakes sort of thing) so belayer beware
Climber_Bill 21 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Great climbing on good rock. Very thoughtful climbing. Perhaps not hard for 7a+, but it is harder than many 7a's, so I think 7a+ is right
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great climbing on good rock. Very thoughtful climbing. Perhaps not hard for 7a+, but it is harder than many 7a's, so I think 7a+ is right
nealh 2 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: fair play oringally done on an incredibley hot day (hence the name)never really could grade it but was definitely harder than than a bunch of other new 7a's which we onsighted earlier the same day, funny old game
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: fair play oringally done on an incredibley hot day (hence the name)never really could grade it but was definitely harder than than a bunch of other new 7a's which we onsighted earlier the same day, funny old game
matt perks 23 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This route has some excellent moves in the middle section between very good holds. It's easy for 7a+ maybe more like 7a or even 6c+. Well worth doing but not 3*.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route has some excellent moves in the middle section between very good holds. It's easy for 7a+ maybe more like 7a or even 6c+. Well worth doing but not 3*.
Ben Stokes 29 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: FA was 16.6.03
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: FA was 16.6.03

Logged Ascents

45 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wallsend South

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 49 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pump Hitler

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Battleship Back Cliff)

Loading Notifications...