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All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.

Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.

 

24m.

Rockfax Description
A thin and dirty wall with some good flowstone near the top. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 26/Apr/1992.

Ticklists

Portland , Portland 7a/+

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ben Stokes 5 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The worst route I have ever done. Firstly you have to climb past the first bolt to clip it. This wouldn’t be so bad if the start wasn’t snappy and dirty and situated above a 30 foot drop into the bottom of a gully. Secondly (if you survive the start) the route continues on more dirty and snappy rock (with a couple of worrying clips) to a dusty mid height ledge. Finally, two or maybe three good moves on solid rock lead to the base of the flowstone which is itself not that nice and in fact a little snappy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The worst route I have ever done. Firstly you have to climb past the first bolt to clip it. This wouldn’t be so bad if the start wasn’t snappy and dirty and situated above a 30 foot drop into the bottom of a gully. Secondly (if you survive the start) the route continues on more dirty and snappy rock (with a couple of worrying clips) to a dusty mid height ledge. Finally, two or maybe three good moves on solid rock lead to the base of the flowstone which is itself not that nice and in fact a little snappy.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wallsend South

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Superfly Guy

Grade: 7a ***
(Coastguard North)

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