UKC Logbook - 'The Jewel of the Isle'

28m.

Rockfax Description
A magical wall climb. Start in the middle of the steepest section of the wall. Climb the fingery lower-wall with conviction to finish up a thin crack in the compact face above. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 25/Jun/1995.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below , Portland , Spanish crew 2018 , West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+ , Portland Sendathon , Portland scheming

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User	Date		Notes
TradRat	13 May	Show βeta βeta: I tried climbing this with the crux jug gone. Obv don't know what it was before, but I'd expect to onsight 6b+, and the effort required to get to third bolt clipping position feels like a bouldery crux of a 7a. Got right hand on the chert knob and tried clipping, but I sweat and repeatedly grease/pump off it. Tried repositioning my feet, tried climbing higher up. It's hot, my feet are sore, I've had it with whipping. Off for a swim. Keen to hear others' opinions!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I tried climbing this with the crux jug gone. Obv don't know what it was before, but I'd expect to onsight 6b+, and the effort required to get to third bolt clipping position feels like a bouldery crux of a 7a. Got right hand on the chert knob and tried clipping, but I sweat and repeatedly grease/pump off it. Tried repositioning my feet, tried climbing higher up. It's hot, my feet are sore, I've had it with whipping. Off for a swim. Keen to hear others' opinions!
Wise	18 May, 2023	Show βeta βeta: The flake with the first bolt in it seems very hollow.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The flake with the first bolt in it seems very hollow.
RockSteady	20 Sep, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Hard to clip at the crux section.
Show beta βeta: Hard to clip at the crux section.
Luke.Nisbet	19 Sep, 2022	Show βeta βeta: I hated this route is as opposite to a boulder as you can get very sport climbing esc crux then some ploddy climbing others in the group loved it
Show beta βeta: I hated this route is as opposite to a boulder as you can get very sport climbing esc crux then some ploddy climbing others in the group loved it
Tituscrags	19 Sep, 2022	Show βeta βeta: The run out at the top was \'engaging\' let\'s say
Show beta βeta: The run out at the top was 'engaging' let's say
earthkeptwarm	17 Oct, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Really great line. Messed up a clip and then fought the box pump up the rest. Quality route with an intense start.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Really great line. Messed up a clip and then fought the box pump up the rest. Quality route with an intense start.
etrillaud	27 Jul, 2020	Show βeta βeta: tough crux move on the lower part
Show beta βeta: tough crux move on the lower part
J1_TOV	8 Sep, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Stiff warm up with shaky low down moves with a long reach left being the last hard move. Bliss after clip 3.
Show beta βeta: Stiff warm up with shaky low down moves with a long reach left being the last hard move. Bliss after clip 3.
a_radiohead_fan	22 Oct, 2006	Show βeta βeta: top route. strenny low down with a little food for thought higher up. excellent.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: top route. strenny low down with a little food for thought higher up. excellent.
Jus	11 Apr, 2005	Show βeta βeta: A 3 star top banana. Easy for the grade & just as good as Trad Free World.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: A 3 star top banana. Easy for the grade & just as good as Trad Free World.
Ben Stokes	19 Oct, 2004	Show βeta βeta: Nice and sustained - a magnificent climb.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Nice and sustained - a magnificent climb.
John Alcock	19 Jul, 2004	Show βeta βeta: Superb, but be prepared to really go for it on the big lunge left.
Show beta βeta: Superb, but be prepared to really go for it on the big lunge left.